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daveh59  
#1 Posted : Monday, July 4, 2011 4:43:58 PM(UTC)
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daveh59

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I've checked the power, the door switch and what I think is the thermal cutoff. The top one on the section where the heating elements are tests open. Is this my likely problem?

Thanks,

Dave
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, July 5, 2011 12:43:07 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL TEDS680DQ1 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.It is blown and needs replacing but is not your problem as it kills power to the heating couil not the motor.
The thermal fuse that kills power to the motor is Item 13 in Section 3.

First I would check the power, you may have lost Neutral so do not have the 120 volts to run the motor.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

Next check the thermal fuse on the blower.
Unplug the unit and check the fuse with a meter should be 0 ohms.
If blown, replace the fuse as it is a critical safety device re: prevents lint fires which can turn into house fires.

Also clean/check your vent system and the blower as these are the most common causes of it blowing.

Then check the cause of the heater's thermal fuse (cut-off) blowing.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
File Attachment(s):
TEDS680.pdf (126kb) downloaded 7 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
daveh59  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, July 5, 2011 5:32:52 PM(UTC)
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daveh59

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Joined: 7/3/2011(UTC)
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Denman, Thank you for your assistance. as you suggested the thermal fuse is also out. The problem being I can not find anything which would definitively make it overheat. Sixteen year and several previous repairs is a pretty good run for a dryer. It may be time to replace rather than repair. Thanks again
Dave
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