Your model number does not come up.
I tried here, Sears and the Whirlpool site.
Find your model number - AppliancePartsPros.com

On most units the thermal fuse on the blower kills power to the motor when blown not the heating element.

Have you checked the power?
The heating element on an electric dryer requires the full 240 volts.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

On most dryers the heater circuit includes the heater, a thermal cut-off, a hi-limit thermostat, a centrifugal switch on the motor and one set of contacts in the timer. This is for dryers that use a mechanical timer and does not apply to units with an electronic control board.

Sorry no joy with that number either.

If this is not a USA unit I may not be able to find info on it.

BINGO!!!

Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool WED5560SQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for your wiring diagram.

I am assuming that you have a meter.
Set the meter to it's most sensitive resistance scale usually 200 ohms.
Set the timer to the position where you do not have heat.
Unplug the unit.

Attach one meter lead (clip or tape it) to the L1 prong on the line cord and leave it there.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.

BK on the timer should be 0 ohms.
R on the timer should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the thermal cutoff, the operating thermostat and the hi-limit thermostat, all should be 0 ohms.
Thermostat side of the heater should be 0 ohms.
Other side of the heater should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
M on the motors centrifugal switch should be 8 to 12 ohms.

With luck you will find what part/connection that is open.

If all is OK then odds are that the problem is with the centrifugal switch.
Often this is a bad connection re: a wire has come off.
But sometimes it is a bad switch.

When you measure the 120 at the heater element are you measuring across the element or using Neutral/ground as the reference re: one meter lead to Neutral or ground.

either side of element to ground reads 120. across element there is no reading.