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TankusKC  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, January 6, 2016 8:18:18 AM(UTC)
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TankusKC

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Joined: 1/6/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2

All-electric Samsung dryer barely out of warranty and it stopped heating. Figured I'd try to fix it myself and save us the $150 service call. Now it's personal... I *have* to figure out what's wrong with it.

Symptoms: [LIST=1]
  • No heat whatsoever on any setting (timed dry, sensor dry, etc.)
  • On timed dry, any heat setting, it will run (cold) for a few minutes and then sing that little song saying it's done. EDIT: I think this might be because I ran it with nothing in the dryer? Seemed to run as scheduled once I put a few things in there to hit the sensors...
  • Will air fluff for full time set.
  • No error codes
  • Ran a vent blockage test a few times (power on, hold down both "Adjust Time ^" and "Dry Level", press start) and the dryer *does* get hot.[/LIST]
    Here's what I've checked so far:[LIST=1]
  • Vents: not blocked; testing with vents off to check for warmth
  • Lint build-up: vacuumed the interior cabinet to remove any traces of lint/dust bunnies
  • Voltage: 240v on the outside two connections and 120v from left/right to center (checked where the plug connects to the back of the dryer)
  • Continuity: all fuses, thermostats, heating element have continuity (including the two on the blower housing and the three on the heater duct assembly)
  • Wiring: no scorched wires or boards, checked some for continuity, but not all[/LIST]
    Here's what I've tried replacing:[LIST=1]
  • DC97-14486A: Heater Duct Assembly (includes new heating element, thermostat, thermal fuse)
  • DC47-00016A: Thermal fuse on the blower housing
  • DC32-00007A: Thermistor on the blower housing
  • DC92-01310A: Control Board[/LIST]
    On the way I have a new timer/user control panel (DC92-01309E) and motor (DC31-00055H) in case it's the centrifugal switch.

    For the love of all that is holy, is there anything else it could be? I've darn-near replaced every electronic component in the stupid thing.
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    LaCajun  
    #2 Posted : Wednesday, January 6, 2016 12:31:33 PM(UTC)
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    LaCajun

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    Posts: 7

    I just went through with that with mine. Still trying to figure out why the heater relay isn't engaging. The sensor inside of the dryer on the back side of the filter holder must sense moisture. If you are trying to run it without any moist clothes, towels, etc., it will time out in three minutes. Once I put moist items in the dryer, it ran for the full cycle. Hope this helps.
    LaCajun  
    #3 Posted : Wednesday, January 6, 2016 2:05:23 PM(UTC)
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    LaCajun

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    Joined: 1/4/2016(UTC)
    Posts: 7

    I just got mine going. The centrifugal switch was the culprit. The neutral leg that feeds the heat relay contact was broken loose. When I broke down the centrifugal switch, I found the contact loose in the casing. Got it jammed for now. Will order a new switch. I am pretty positive this is what your problem is. Best wishes on your problem.
    TankusKC  
    #4 Posted : Friday, January 8, 2016 10:55:39 AM(UTC)
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    TankusKC

    Rank: Member

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    Joined: 1/6/2016(UTC)
    Posts: 2

    Replacing the motor fixed it! Guess it was the centrifugal switch.

    Now, what do I do with the old motor? :D
    LaCajun  
    #5 Posted : Friday, January 8, 2016 3:59:40 PM(UTC)
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    LaCajun

    Rank: Member

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    Joined: 1/4/2016(UTC)
    Posts: 7

    Glad you got it going. It was actually the black centrifugal switch assembly that is attached to to the motor with two screws that was bad. I would save the motor in the event that the other goes out.

    I got in touch with Samsung and talked to them about my issue with the dryer. I have a claim number with them at present. My unit went out in a year and a month. I told them that the black switch must be a manufacturer's defect and I saw there were others on the forum that had identical problems with theirs. I got a switch from a Samsung repair person. I gave him $20 for it.

    I am waiting on Samsung to see what they will possibly do for me. Again, there is nothing wrong with the motor, it is the black switch on it. I broke mine down and found the contact loose in the casing. I was going to see about soldering it back on the copper bar. It would still work if you can get it attached to the bar. :)
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