Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/2/2009(UTC) Posts: 1
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My oven won't turn off. Everything on the digital display says the oven off but warm air still blows within the oven. Any ideas? I have to trip the breaker to turn the offen off.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/2/2007(UTC) Posts: 769
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Can you tell which element is still providing heat? The electronic control provides both circuits to the elements so one of the relays on the board could be stuck shut. Check the back wall and see if the heat is coming from around the convection fan. Then report back your findings.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/9/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Originally Posted by: TechnicianBrian Can you tell which element is still providing heat? The electronic control provides both circuits to the elements so one of the relays on the board could be stuck shut. Check the back wall and see if the heat is coming from around the convection fan. Then report back your findings. I am having the same problem. The bottom element will not shut off.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/2/2007(UTC) Posts: 769
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nc.husherfan, is your model the same as rg99's? Most likely, if your bake element is still heating, power is being applied and that can mean a failed control board or shorted circuit, but I would need the model number to better assist you. Verify if the element is glowing red, or just warm, and that the control panel shows the oven off, then report back.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/9/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Thanks for replying Brian. Mine is a Kenmore 911.9354591. The bottom element is glowing red with the control panel in the off position. The lights indicating that the oven is on are off. Thanks again. Kevin (nc.huskerfan)
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/2/2007(UTC) Posts: 769
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Well if the element is glowing and the control board ( AP2025191) isn't on, then the board needs to be replaced. It is a rather odd problem, but not completely unusual as the relays can stick shut with age. With the range plugged in and the back of the control panel removed, you can try tapping hard on the black boxed located on the board and see if the contacts release (the element would go out if they did), but my guess is they would stick shut again in the near future. If you get tired of running to the breaker box, looks like the board is going to be your solution.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/9/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Just replaced the control board. Problem didn't go away. Any other suggestions? Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/2/2007(UTC) Posts: 769
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The wiring on your range is quite simple as both the L1 and L2 circuits run from the terminal block to the control board, then to the element. If the element is actually glowing red when the power is on, both circuits would need to be powered. With the back of the unit removed, you need to look for some place one of the circuits is shorting to ground as that is the only place it could be happening besides the board. Unplug the unit and check the ends of the element or even the element itself to see it it is contacting the chassis at any point. Check all the wires leading to the element from the control and the terminal block. One of them must be shorted. Has anything with the wiring changed recently that may lead us in a better direction? Sorry to steer you in the wrong direction, but there must be a short somewhere and the control is the most likely place that won't cause the spark show associated with a typical short.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/9/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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No apology necessary. You can only make suggestions with what limited information I give you. My expertise lies solely with "if I can take it off, I can put another one on." My weakness is the diagnostic portion of the equation... which just happens to be a rather big portion of the equation. I sincerely thank you for your help. I'll check out the wires this morning.
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