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My Kenmore 80 Series Auto-Belt Drive Washer agitates, drains, but sometimes doesn't spin before the rinse cycle and never spins after the rinse cycle. A serviceman said I needed a clutch and gearcase, and that it would cost as much to repair as it would to buy a new washer. This has happened 3 times with different appliances. I see a pattern of not servicing and repairing, but selling new appliances. I'm questioning whether I need a gearcase (the most expensive part).
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It's not a belt drive, it's a direct drive and not likely needing a new transmission. The transmission is a neutral drain type. Right after agitation stops, the washer should drain for 2 minutes without spinning. The timer then pauses the motor for a few seconds which shifts the transmission out of neutral. The motor then starts again at which point it will start spinning while continuing to drain. If the motor does not pause after drain, then the timer is faulty. If it does pause but still won't spin then most likely you just need a new clutch. I would also check the motor drive coupler. Lack of spin can also be caused by a worn drive block. Your washer is worth repairing as it is far better than anything you can buy today. The best way to determine the problem if the timer is working properly is to remove the cabinet and bypass the lid switch so you can observe the clutch and basket drive.
Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56  It's not a belt drive, it's a direct drive and not likely needing a new transmission. The transmission is a neutral drain type. Right after agitation stops, the washer should drain for 2 minutes without spinning. The timer then pauses the motor for a few seconds which shifts the transmission out of neutral. The motor then starts again at which point it will start spinning while continuing to drain. If the motor does not pause after drain, then the timer is faulty. If it does pause but still won't spin then most likely you just need a new clutch. I would also check the motor drive coupler. Lack of spin can also be caused by a worn drive block. Your washer is worth repairing as it is far better than anything you can buy today. The best way to determine the problem if the timer is working properly is to remove the cabinet and bypass the lid switch so you can observe the clutch and basket drive.
Eric The motor does pause, but won't spin. The serviceman said I needed a gearcase. What do you think?
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 It's not a belt drive, it's a direct drive and not likely needing a new transmission. The transmission is a neutral drain type. Right after agitation stops, the washer should drain for 2 minutes without spinning. The timer then pauses the motor for a few seconds which shifts the transmission out of neutral. The motor then starts again at which point it will start spinning while continuing to drain. If the motor does not pause after drain, then the timer is faulty. If it does pause but still won't spin then most likely you just need a new clutch. I would also check the motor drive coupler. Lack of spin can also be caused by a worn drive block. Your washer is worth repairing as it is far better than anything you can buy today. The best way to determine the problem if the timer is working properly is to remove the cabinet and bypass the lid switch so you can observe the clutch and basket drive.
Eric Are you sure it's a direct drive? A couple of my receipts say Auto-Belt Drive.
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after doing the above, is the tub just not moving during spin cycle? if the clutch is rotating but the tub not moving the pads may be worn off on the clutch.. this is a fairly easy repair and not so expensive at just over 20 bucks or so.. I saw a tip from a repair guy on Youtube where he suggests running through the spin cycle and then mist some water on the clutch assembly.. if it steams this indicates the pads are worn off.. they're not catching to spin the tub anymore.
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