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I'm afraid I did not get it clear. Did you test the voltage to the pump motor or the motor itself for continuity?
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene I'm afraid I did not get it clear. Did you test the voltage to the pump motor or the motor itself for continuity?
Gene. I tested the plug that comes out of the pump:o I disconnected the wire that goes to the pump and I tested the wires that is where I found no juice to that connection.
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Originally Posted by: castoju ...I found no juice to that connection... It can be because of a bad lid lock. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene It can be because of a bad lid lock.
Gene. so I gather you still suggest to replace the switch?:confused: That should run power to the pump? R/Judy
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Yes, I do. There is nothing to loose for you.
Gene.
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Order from you...or order from web site? Judy
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Judy,
What did you mean "from me"? I personally DO NOT sell parts. Appliance Parts Pros does it. I'm just volunteer on this repair forum, helping people like you to fix their appliances.
If you would like to order the part, just click on the part number in the previous post and follow the instructions.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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:o OK...I'm going to order the switch...I hope this works...Judy Originally Posted by: Gene Judy,
What did you mean "from me"? I personally DO NOT sell parts. Appliance Parts Pros does it. I'm just volunteer on this repair forum, helping people like you to fix their appliances.
If you would like to order the part, just click on the part number in the previous post and follow the instructions.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/3/2009(UTC) Posts: 27
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I know this is an old one, but for anyone else who stumbles in here with a similar problem.
On mine, the wash load would get stalled at the drain/spin cycle. The tub would just sit there full of water. Here was my 'fix' after several failed attempts to trouble shoot. In my case, I finally determined that the washer fill door switch was not closing. While I had the front panel off, I noticed that lower the lid pushed the switch paddle down, but I was not hearing the micro switch part of the above posted switch and bracket assembly >click< closed. Forcing the paddle just a bit farther allowed the switch to close. Bottom line, the bracket / and or the entire cabinet frame had begun to sag just a bit, due to gravity (i guess) and time. I pushed the switch assembly up, bending the bracket, just a little bit. This raised the switch just enough to allow the door's striker to be able to close the switch. This switch is a safety switch which prevents the tub from spinning with an open door. If the switch is still open when the door closes, the washer 'thinks' the door is still open. This condition should be easy to diagnose, but opening the washer door, the pushing a pencil or other non-conductive probe into the slot above the switch paddle. Don't push too far as you could break the paddle. If you can make the cycle continue to the spin portion by doing this, you've diagnosed the problem. Just be sure to unplug the unit before opening up the cabinet and manipulating the switch assembly. The electrical connections are not guarded. You could get shocked if it's still pluggedin.
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