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biziswinning  
#1 Posted : Friday, January 21, 2011 6:37:13 PM(UTC)
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biziswinning

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Joined: 1/21/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1

Hello, my dryer is not heating. I took out the back cover and took the part where the coils are and i don't know what the problem is..I know it's got something to do with this part, but it also has a few small parts attached to it in which i took out the wires in able to get it completely out of the dryer..I use to help my father fix these things but i don't have the equipment to diagnose...Is it the small switches attached or is it the coils inside this metal part?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, January 23, 2011 4:07:06 AM(UTC)
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denman

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A model number may help others help you.

The first thing to check is the power.
The motor uses half the line (120 volts) while the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kayakcrzy  
#3 Posted : Sunday, January 23, 2011 6:11:51 AM(UTC)
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kayakcrzy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,429

How do the coils look since you pulled them out? Do you see a break? If not, it will most likely be the part on the top left side of the heater housing. It is called the thermal limit switch. If you had a meter, check and see if there is any continuity on the element, and the thermal limit switch. Pull 1 wire off, each part when you check it. If there is no reading, that is the part that is bad. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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