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smitty33  
#11 Posted : Wednesday, August 6, 2008 7:39:26 PM(UTC)
smitty33

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Dumb questions Gene, I'm no electrician...
How do I check to see if there is 120V AC between the pegs?
I don't think I use the Ohmeter, do I?
Please provide specifics on how to do this. Sounds like this is leading towards replacing my control BOARD. I'm hoping the panel is good.
Thanks again, Scott
Gene  
#12 Posted : Thursday, August 7, 2008 8:08:34 PM(UTC)
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Hi Scott,

I'm not sure what kind of meter do you have. If you can post a picture of the meter, it might help.

Gene.
smitty33  
#13 Posted : Saturday, August 9, 2008 1:51:03 PM(UTC)
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Gene,
My Digital Ohmmeter is just like the one pictured on your link "how to check continuity". It says Digital Multimeter just like the one in your picture.

http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.html

Thanks - Scott
Gene  
#14 Posted : Saturday, August 9, 2008 9:40:06 PM(UTC)
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Scott,

The "ACV" shown on the meter control panel means "Alternating Current Voltage". You have to turn the mode switch on 200 scale for this test.

Because you are not very familiar with safety rules to work under the power, it's going to be probably better (and safer for you) just to replace the control board.

- The part number for the control board is AP3767567

Gene.
smitty33  
#15 Posted : Monday, August 25, 2008 7:51:06 AM(UTC)
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Replaced my Control Board with no problems. Oven works perfectly. Thanks Gene, I'll recommend this site to anyone with appliance issues. :)
Gene  
#16 Posted : Monday, August 25, 2008 9:08:07 AM(UTC)
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I'm glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.
OldSchool  
#17 Posted : Thursday, November 20, 2008 2:02:55 PM(UTC)
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I had a similar problem with error code E6 F2 showing up sometimes, a dark display other times, sometimes the oven would work for a day or so. The pushbuttons always beeped normally when you pressed them but you couldn't actually operate the oven other than turning the light on/off.

Upon opening the controls as described above, I found that the small square TO-220 style device with 3 wires (probably a voltage regulator) and a large resistor with a diode inline near the top of the circuit board above the display had heat cycled themselves enough to crack their solder joints. A quick re-solder solved the problem!
smitty33  
#18 Posted : Saturday, January 24, 2009 2:35:12 PM(UTC)
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Thanks Gene on this previous issue. Replacing the control board was easy (thanks to your advice) and saved me a bundle!

HOWEVER, now my wife has used the cleaning mode with this oven and now it is dead. From a brief review of this forum, it sounds like I might have blown a fuse or 2? Could you send me the parts number(s)? Thanks!!!
Gene  
#19 Posted : Saturday, January 24, 2009 5:31:30 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Scott,

Which oven is not working?

If it's the upper oven then the part number for the fuse (#37 on the break down diagram) is AP3008987

The oven has to be removed from the cabinet in order to replace this part.

I'm not sure if there is a self clean option for the lower oven.

Gene.
smitty33  
#20 Posted : Monday, January 26, 2009 7:32:07 PM(UTC)
smitty33

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Whirlpool Double Oven
Model # RBD275PDB12

Gene,
Both ovens, control panel, and oven lights all went dead after using the auto cleaning mode on the upper oven. The circuit breaker to the oven is ON.
It looks like there could be a Thermostat behind the upper oven (AP3008987) and a thermal fuse behind the lower oven (AP313249). I'm also wishing there was a thermal fuse behind the control panel that would likely be much easier to replace, but I can't find one on the diagram.
If I need to replace the thermostat or fuse behind the oven, is this something of a jack-of-no-trade home improvement guy like me can pull off? Thanks! - Scott

PS-Sorry i accidently posted this reply under another thread
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