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WFrankfort  
#1 Posted : Monday, February 25, 2013 1:56:18 PM(UTC)
WFrankfort

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Posts: 5

The multi sized electric element (8") that can be set to 4", 6" 8" or grill and has a sensor stopped working. The continuity test shows that the element is OK, but it still does not heat.
I actually bought a new element (WB30X357) and wired it in, but it still does not heat up. (Good-bye $80.00)
The cost for a new sensor (they are not even available) is $300.00.
How do I test the sensor?
Can I close of the sensor to make the element work but connecting the lead wires to the sensor
Can I simply rewire to swap in a regular standard 8" element?
Any help is appreciated.
Bill
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, February 26, 2013 1:09:36 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Hi Bill,

Very likely the problem is a bad sensor which is no longer available.

It's probably possible to swap in a regular 8" heating element. You also will need the receptacle block and the infinite switch.

- The 8" heating element Part number: WB30X219
Part number: WB30X219



- The receptacle Part number: WB17X5051
Part number: WB17X5051



- The infinite switch Part number: WB21X5243
Part number: WB21X5243



The rewiring is pretty simple. L1 & L2 - incoming power. H1 & H2 - power to the heating element. P - power to the indicator light.

Gene.
WFrankfort  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, February 26, 2013 6:03:37 PM(UTC)
WFrankfort

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Posts: 5

Gene,

Thank you for the info on the swaping out the wb30x357 for a standard 8" element.

One more stupid question...On the JHP67G*D2 the switches are all behind a panel on the right side next to the upper oven. There is a piano type hinge on the bottom of this panel. Before i totally ruin my wife's stove, what is the secret to opening this panel? Are there simply two clips? I do not see any set screwes, etc. Does the top part simple pull away (theremust be tension clips)and then fold down?

Thanks again,

Bill
Gene  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, February 26, 2013 6:53:00 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Hi Bill,

First of all turn of the power to the range.

There is a screw on top of the control panel. You can rich it through the hole in the frame. You may need a torx screwdriver.

Gene.
WFrankfort  
#5 Posted : Thursday, February 28, 2013 2:11:37 PM(UTC)
WFrankfort

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Joined: 2/25/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5

Gene,

I am having a little difficuklty finding the screw. The only one I see is at the top of the panel that is visible when you open the levered door to access the metal filter on the top. It appears to go through about 1/4 of plastic and possibly then into the top of the panel.

Is this the set screw?

Thanks,

Bill
Gene  
#6 Posted : Thursday, February 28, 2013 7:28:33 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Posts: 27,455

Yes Bill. That's it.

Gene.
WFrankfort  
#7 Posted : Monday, March 4, 2013 9:22:27 AM(UTC)
WFrankfort

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Joined: 2/25/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5

Gene,

I finally got around to opening the access panel for my GE JHP67GD2 to swap out the right front sensor controlled element for a stabndard 8." Lot's of wires, but not all that complicated.
Two more questions:
1. The resopnder (infinite type switdch) for the sensor controlled element is relatively clearly marked with P, L1,L2,H1,H2 but also has 4 wires (white,yellow, yellow,red) that seem to go to the back of the oven or into a transducer. Am I correct in assuming these are for the sensor control and are simple shunted when I swith to a regular infinite switch.
2. My current 4 wire element (#WB30X357) runs perfectly. Can I use the 4"-6"-8" Grill switch below the knob after I have wired in the new infinite switch. H2 from the responder goes ditredtly to the multi size switch and then three wires go out to the element. Sems to me that the H1 form the responder goes directly to the element while h@ routes through the multi switch?
No one seems to have a schematic..........
Thansk for any mor ehelp. If i can wire via the muti switch I save the cost of e new 8' element and the conector block.

I am getting close to being a pain?

Bill
Gene  
#8 Posted : Monday, March 4, 2013 11:37:43 AM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Hi Bill,

You are right about those 4 wires. You don't need them. So just disconnect and insulate them.

I believe you can use that switch to keep the old heating element. The mini-manual is attached to the post.

Gene.
File Attachment(s):
723a364p20 - JHP67G_D2.pdf (122kb) downloaded 4 time(s).

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WFrankfort  
#9 Posted : Monday, March 4, 2013 12:05:15 PM(UTC)
WFrankfort

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/25/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5

At first I didn't understand "mini manual attached to post" but realized it was the attached file schematic.

Thanks....

Bill
Gene  
#10 Posted : Monday, March 4, 2013 12:12:26 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

You are welcome. Keep us posted.

Gene.
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