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josh fatouros  
#1 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2013 8:39:19 PM(UTC)
josh fatouros

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Dryer won't heat up. Runs but no heat.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, January 13, 2013 11:49:09 PM(UTC)
denman

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Here are you parts
Parts for Frigidaire GLEH1642DS1 Washer Dryer Combo - AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...df/Webster/134573300.pdf

First check the power. The motor, timer etc, runs off of half the line (120 volts) but the heater requires the full 240 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
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josh fatouros  
#3 Posted : Monday, January 14, 2013 6:07:24 PM(UTC)
josh fatouros

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I checked voltage at the terminal and had 121 volts on both legs. What should I do next.
denman  
#4 Posted : Monday, January 14, 2013 11:47:21 PM(UTC)
denman

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Did you have 240 from L1 to L2?

Just checking each line in for 120 to Neutral is no good. As one side of the line can feed through parts in the dryer so you see 120 on each leg but it is actually the same side (phase) of the line.
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josh fatouros  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, January 15, 2013 3:43:57 PM(UTC)
josh fatouros

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Yes I had 240 between L1 and L2
denman  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, January 16, 2013 1:27:40 AM(UTC)
denman

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Unplug the unit and check the following.

Next check the heating element, should be around 12 ohms.

Then check the hi-limit thermostat, should be 0 ohms.
If the hi-limit is blown you have to figure out why it blew before replacing it.

Then the control thermostat contacts, should be 0 ohms.

Then place the timer mid cycle of a heater timed dry cycle and check the timer contacts A to B, should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to disconnect the wire at on on the timer contacts before testing. This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path.


Also use you most sensitive meter scale when checking the above, usually 200 ohms.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
josh fatouros  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, January 16, 2013 6:57:22 PM(UTC)
josh fatouros

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I pulled the dryer all apart and found the element burned apart. Do I need to change anything else when I replace the element.
josh fatouros  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, January 16, 2013 6:57:33 PM(UTC)
josh fatouros

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I pulled the dryer all apart and found the element burned apart. Do I need to change anything else when I replace the element.
josh fatouros  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, January 16, 2013 7:55:12 PM(UTC)
josh fatouros

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Thanks for guiding me in the right direction. I found the element burned out.
denman  
#10 Posted : Thursday, January 17, 2013 7:45:26 AM(UTC)
denman

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You should not have to change anything else but I would check the following: belt, idler wheel, rear support bearing, front supports, drum seals etc.
Might as well give it an overhaul.

Clean and re-grease the rear support bering using a high temperature grease.
Also a good time to clean/check your vent system.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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