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Hi Gene, I don't know if I'm testing the motor correctly: directions say to test from service panel on motor plug...is the motor plug on the motor itself? Should the washer itself be plugged in when I test for the ohms?
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Originally Posted by: yiming  Same problem as before. On startup, I set the model to 01 then tried "t10" and "t11". It doesn't spin at all. Also tried "rinse/spin" cycle with no spinning observed at the "spin" cycle, only a couple of slow back and forth spinning at the beginning.
One difference with the new control board is no "t14" available in the test mode. It goes up to "t13". Did you program the new control board as described on the first page of this thread? Gene.
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Originally Posted by: adam60351 Hi Gene, I don't know if I'm testing the motor correctly: directions say to test from service panel on motor plug...is the motor plug on the motor itself? Should the washer itself be plugged in when I test for the ohms? The motor plug is the part of the motor where the wire harness plugs in. The power must be always disconnected prior to continuity test. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Did you program the new control board as described on the first page of this thread?
Gene. Yes, I did. I entered 01 for the model id first time the new control board was powered on and reprogramed again according to the first page. I didn't try with different model ids this time with the new control board. Should I try other ids, e.g. 02, 03, 04, etc?
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Originally Posted by: yiming Yes, I did. I entered 01 for the model id first time the new control board was powered on and reprogramed again according to the first page. I didn't try with different model ids this time with the new control board. Should I try other ids, e.g. 02, 03, 04, etc? I'm afraid you did something wrong during the inverter tests. Carefully read the instructions and redo the tests. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene I'm afraid you did something wrong during the inverter tests. Carefully read the instructions and redo the tests.
Gene. I went back to the inverter test and measured the voltage between the blue and red wires according to your instruction. The voltage is always present as soon as I enter the test mode, which is not expected per your instruction. The spin tests, t10, t11, have the same result, i.e. no spin, while the voltage is present. Also redid motor and sensor ohm tests seemed normal. Not sure if the inverter is the problem at the point.
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Originally Posted by: yiming I went back to the inverter test and measured the voltage between the blue and red wires according to your instruction. The voltage is always present as soon as I enter the test mode, which is not expected per your instruction. The spin tests, t10, t11, have the same result, i.e. no spin, while the voltage is present. Also redid motor and sensor ohm tests seemed normal.
Not sure if the inverter is the problem at the point. Your previous report posted on 1/29/10 says: " There is no voltage measured from these two wires". That's why I recommended to replace the control board. Your last report says: "... I went back to the inverter test and measured the voltage between the blue and red wires...The voltage is always present as soon as I enter the test mode...". Such result leads to the bad inverter conclusion as it says in the troubleshooting instructions attached to the reply posted on the second page of this thread on 1/28/10: " If 120 VAC is present at the AC input harness and motor resistance is correct, replace the inverter." Keeping in mind that there is already the new control board and both previous motor tests did not show anything wrong, the problem is a bad inverter. - The inverter Part number: AP4421584
Gene.
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Thanks Gene. I will try replacing the inverter. Will let you know how it goes.
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Yes, the new inverter fix the problem. Gene, thanks a million for your help along the way. It's been a rewarding process. --Yiming
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You are welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix it. Thank you for the feed back.
Gene.
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