Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/18/2007(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
I have a dryer that is approximately 5-10 years old and all of the sudden it stopped heating. The cycle runs like normal but the when the dryer is spinning it doesnt get hot enough to actually dry the clothes. Do I need a new heating element and how can I get one if so? Is there a reset to this model (to the heater)?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Before go further I have a question: does it stay cold or it's warm inside the dryer?
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/18/2007(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
The first thing I would check is the 240V from the outlet. It suppose to be 120V across any hot and the neutral and 240V across both hot. If the readings are wrong, reset both circuit breakers for the dryer. If it did not help, cal a certified electrician to fix the circuit breakers. If there is nothing wrong then check continuity across the heating element terminals with one wire removed (#17 on the bulkhead parts break down digram). Replace the heating element if it's open. Check the thermal cut off (#6 on the bulkhead parts break down diagram) and the hi limit thermostat (#15 on the bulkhead parts break down diagram) for continuity. - The part number for the heating element is AP3094254 - The part number for the hi limit thermostat is AP3131941 - The part number for the thermal cut off is AP3094244 Good luck. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/18/2007(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Ok,
So I checked the voltage coming from the outlet and it was 120V from the hot and ground and 240 between the two upper. Next I replaced the heater element number 17 thinking that it was the problem. It still doesn't heat. One thing that I forgot to mention is that when I start the dryer the timer never goes down. I was assuming that this was due to the heat problem. I know that some dryers will not start the timer untill they have heating up. So when I start a cycle the dryer spins and cold air comes out. Knowing this information do you have any guess as to whether it would be the thermal fuse or the other part (part# 15).
Thanks a bunch
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/18/2007(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
One more thing, it looks like if I order it from you that both the cut off and the thermostat come together. Is this right? If that is the case then I will just buy both of them and replace them both.
Thank you so much for your help.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
You have to run a simple continuity test to make sure which part is bad. Remove a wire from any one of two terminals on the thermal cut off and the hi limit thermostat, place the meter probes on both terminals and read the resistance. If it's close to zero then the part is good. If it shows the infinite resistance then the part is bad and has to be replaced. The thermal cut off and the hi limit thermostat come together as a kit. Happy New year! Gene. P.S. If you do not have a meter, here it is.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
