Here is the wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203406692.pdfThere is a thermal fuse on this unit for just the heater, Item 9 in "Section 1" of the parts breakdown.
Also if you have not done so turn your breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
You can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. The result is no heat but the main motor and timer motor both run. Better yet check that there is 240 volts at the receptacle.
If the fuse is blown be sure to clean/check the blower wheel and your vent system. Also any seals in the air path for major leaks. You are pulling air through the unit/heater, the cycling thermostat is on the blower/exhaust so if you pull in cold air in somewhere, the unit will think it is cooler than it actually is and overheat.
You will notice the fuse comes with a Hi-limit, both must be replaced.
Rather than just randomly changing parts, I would suggest you purchase a a meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
