[COLOR="Blue"]Did I get a bad thermostat or is the info I read on here incorrect?[/COLOR]
Could be bad depends how you tested it.
I do not know what info you read so cannot say if it was wrong or not.
The thermostat must be frozen when you test it.
It should be 0 ohms when frozen and infinite ohms at room temperature.
If you cannot freeze it hold it's metal face onto an ice cube.
You can usually hear a click when it closes
[COLOR="Blue"]
Or am I heading down the wrong path?[/COLOR]
Path seems OK to me.
You may just need a little help with the method.
Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool KBRA20ELSS01 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet.
Do not let the evaporator coils de-ice.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam (Item 24 in Section 03) till the fans and compressor turn off.
There is usually a hole in the cover to let you do this without taking anything apart.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 10 in Section 05) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 30 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 14 in Section 05) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.
