Try to reprogram the control board, following these instructions:

Enter the test mode and select "t01"
Rotate the cycle knob until the correct model number is displayed - "3" for model WBVH6240F
Press and hold the "Start" key for 3 seconds (or until a second beep is sounded)
Press the "Power" key to reset the control.

If it would not help then replace the control board. You have to program the new control board according to above instructions.

- The part number for the control board is AP3995160

Gene.

In order to enter the test mode you have:

Press the "power" button to clear any current cycles (the display must be blank to proceed)
Unplug the washer for 30 seconds
Plug it back and within 30 seconds of reconnecting power press signal-delay start-signal delay start
The door should lock then will display "t01".

Gene.

Most likely the problem is a bad control board because the washer does not go into the test mode. The decimal point is not listed anywhere as a fault code. Actually it is not listed at all. The part number for the control board I posted earlier.

I'll try to invite abadfish66 to review this problem. He is the best GE expert on the forum.

Gene.

After poking around a bit more - some additional information and questions:

I ran across what appears to be a discrepancy in the information about the water level control. I don't know whether it is related to the problem I'm having or not but it confuses me so I thought I would ask. I am assuming that you have access to the service manual but if not I can provide the relevant pages.

- The third paragraph at the beginning of the "Service Test Mode" section of the service manual (page 51) says (emphasis added) "The water level switch must reset BEFORE the test mode can be entered. If water remains in the washer, manually drain the washer to reset the water level switch. A failed water level switch can cause an inability to enter the test mode." I drained the machine via removing the pump filter.

- Page 33 of the service manual shows a table indicating the switch positions of the 3 physical switches inside the water level switch under various conditions. It indicates that when the machine is empty the "Foam" switch will be closed and the "Main" and "Overflow" switches will be open. The illustration immediately below the table shows the wiring for the three switches to the connector and seems to depict the "Empty" position based on the table. Based on this information and checking with an ohm meter my water level switch is in the empty position.

- Page 58 of the service manual (as well as the Service Tech sheet that is normally inside the cover of the machine) show a schematic of the control board. The water level switch drawing in these diagrams indicates that all three internal switches (Foam, Main, and Overflow) are all normally open switches - this seems to contradict the diagram/table on page 33.

All of this leaves me unsure if my water level switch is failed or not and whether it could be preventing me from getting into the test mode as described above. Do you know which switch positions are correct and/or which ones correspond to the water level switch being "reset" as is required before going into Test mode? I don't suppose you have any water level switches laying on a shelf that could be checked with an ohm meter do you? :)


Separate from the above, I measured the voltages at pins P8.2, P8.3, and P8.4 on the control board (see the schematic on page 58 once again). P8.3 and P8.4 are the door unlock and lock coils respectively and P8.2 is the common between them. When the machine is plugged in, all of these pins show 120VAC to ground. That struck me as a bit odd as you might think that they would be at 0 and then when you wanted to lock or unlock the door you would send 120 to either P8.3 or P8.4 depending on the desired action. Do you have any insights/thoughts relative to this (or is it even important?).

Thanks again. I guess the bright side of all this is that I now know the machine better and learned how to manually release the door if the machine ever fails in a locked mode.....:rolleyes:

Thanks. The lock/unlock solenoids works properly if you directly apply 120 VAC but it is definitely not getting that from the control board. I'll look forward to hearing if you find anything further.