Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/10/2008(UTC) Posts: 10
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Hello,
the water level switch recently stopped working. Regardless of the position of the slide control, the tank gets filled with water until it's full. Then it stops filling, and the washer begins agitating as usual. But there's no way to fill the tank half-full, for instance.
I replaced water level switch for a new one, purchased from this site, but it did not help.
I measured electric resistance between terminals of the switch with empty and with full tank, and they are as should be - closed circuit between one pair with empty, closed between another will full. But position of the slide control does not have any effect.
The rubber air pressure hose appears intact.
What else to look at?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/10/2008(UTC) Posts: 10
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further development... after several attempts to try this and that, changing new water level switch to new and back, now the water doesn't stop even when the tank is full. I still can stop it manually by the round knob.
I confirmed that there's no leak in the air hose by trying to blow into it with the water in the tank.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Check for 120VAC to the water inlet valve coils. Check if removing the wires will stop filling.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/10/2008(UTC) Posts: 10
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Originally Posted by: Gene Check for 120VAC to the water inlet valve coils yes, when the water is pouring in, there is 120VAC on them. If cold water, on one coil, if hot, on another. Quote:Check if removing the wires will stop filling. yes, removing the wires does stop filling.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Check the "check" switch. If it's shorted, according to the wiring diagram, it can cause such problem. Here are the break down diagrams for the Maytag washer Model LAT5916AAEGene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/10/2008(UTC) Posts: 10
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"check" switch, as I understand, is part of the lid switch assembly, right? I couldn't get it apart, but I measured the resistance between the terminals. "Line" and "Machine" were always shorted; "motor" and "machine" were shorted with closed lid, open with open lid. The water pours into the tank regardless of the lid; opening the lid stops the motor when it's working.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Check switch is a part of the lid switch assembly. Refer to the break down diagrams.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/10/2008(UTC) Posts: 10
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Finally, figured out where the problem was - in the air hose. The hose was intact, no holes etc., but some debris clogged it a little in the wide part where it attaches to the tank. The air was still moving in the hose, but obviously the debris affected the pressure transmitted to the switch. I detached the hose from the tank, cleaned it, and that fixed the problem.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I'm glad you were able to find the problem and fix it.
Gene.
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