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jhill  
#461 Posted : Friday, July 10, 2009 2:40:29 PM(UTC)
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jhill

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Gene,

I have a KitchenAid KSSP42QJS00
Jasmati  
#462 Posted : Sunday, July 12, 2009 5:38:17 AM(UTC)
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Jasmati

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I have a Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator (Model #ED25GWXXN00). The problem started with the refrigerator not cooling properly and then the freezer doing the same. We have done the following so far:
1) Cleaned the condenser coils (they were filled with dust)
2) Checked for ice on the evaporator coils. There was some, so I turned the unit off to let it melt. Recent checks show only light level of frost forms but no ice.
3) Verified both the evap fan and the condenser fan were running.
4) Advanced the defrost motor until the compressor turned off. It properly turned back on at the appropriate time (~30 min).
4) Also, did a continuity check of the defrost motor (continuity changed between pins as it advanced through the two stages)
5) Continuity checked the defrost thermostat (closed at cold, open at higher temp)
6) Continuity checked defrost heater. (~20 ohm)
7) Verified the door switch and light switch.
8) Operational and continuity check the refrigerator control (continuity check indicated 0/infinity did not have the long gradual change like a typical rheostat)
9) Verified the baffle mechanically changes as the freezer control is adjusted (changes flow into refrigerator section).
10) Verified no blockage in flow paths between sections

Currently I have the refrigerator running and the freezer appears to be running well (froze a cup of water…I do not have a temp gauge). The refrigerator control is set to 3 (middle) and the Freezer control is set to A - Warmer (permit max flow to refrigerator). The evaporator coils are lightly frosted….no ice. Defroster appears to be working properly. Both fans are running. The compressor is running and very warm to the touch.

However, the refrigerator is not getting cold…only slightly cool. The air flow into the refrigerator appears to be slow. I think that I need more flow to get it to cool down properly. The refrigerator has been running for nearly a day. I have just adjusted the controls to 4 – A to see if it will get the refrigerator to cold.

Any other ideas? Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Dan
woodchuckie  
#463 Posted : Sunday, July 12, 2009 6:16:40 AM(UTC)
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woodchuckie

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I would go ahead and set the fridge temp to max cold to get the damper open all the way.
Your evaporator fan may not be running as fast as it should. Make sure the fan spins freely when it's off and you spin it. Test the fan for continuity using a multitester. Unplug the fan and Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the fan does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Make sure the connectors are not corroded.



Make sure the light frosting on the coils is covering the entire coil. Anything less would indicate low freon.
Jasmati  
#464 Posted : Sunday, July 12, 2009 2:50:11 PM(UTC)
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Jasmati

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I think you may have discovered the possible problem. After removing the fan the continuity measurement read 47 ohms. Is this enough resistance to slow the fan down?

The frost is in general covers all of the coils. Maybe heavier on the upper coils.

I will also lower the refrigerator temp setting. But it sounds like I will likely be buying a new fan.

Thanks,
Dan
Gene  
#465 Posted : Monday, July 13, 2009 1:40:45 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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Originally Posted by: jhill Go to Quoted Post
Gene,

I have a KitchenAid KSSP42QJS00


Remove the upper grill and look for an envelope with the tech sheets. Perform the teats as described there and post the results.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSSP42QJS00 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
Mr_Tantrum  
#466 Posted : Thursday, July 23, 2009 5:01:24 PM(UTC)
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Mr_Tantrum

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Gene,

I appreciate the knowledge you have shared on this topic, and it has been useful to me. However, I'm still experiencing the same problem. I have a GE side-by-side model GSH25JSTA SS. Several months ago, I noticed that the fridge side was 50 degrees + even though the freezer was working properly. After finding your message, I determined that the coils were frozen so I thawed them and hope for the best. To make a long story short, based on continuity tests it seemed as if the motherboard was not working correctly, so I replaced it with a new one from my local GE parts supply. To my surprise, the problem returned within 2 weeks. So, even though I thought they tested okay, I replaced the thermostate and heating element about 10 days ago. Well, today my fridge was 50 degrees + again and the coils in the freezer where heavily frosted over.

The only thing that I noticed this time is a loose grounding wire at the bottom of the freezer. I was aware of one located at the top of the freezer that connects to the dividing panel, but this is the first time I saw the one at the bottom. I connected it, but I don't know if it will make a difference or not.

Given the above, do you have any insight as to what my problem might be now? If I have a second faulty MB, how do I specifically test it to prove that it is faulty so that I can exchange it (I tried to follow your directions as posted, but I may be a little unclear as to exactly which leads I should be testing)?
Gene  
#467 Posted : Thursday, July 23, 2009 5:08:04 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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I would suspect the evaporator thermistor (on top of the evaporator).

- The thermistor Part number: AP3185407
Mr_Tantrum  
#468 Posted : Friday, July 24, 2009 4:47:32 AM(UTC)
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Mr_Tantrum

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
I would suspect the evaporator thermistor (on top of the evaporator).

- The thermistor Part number: AP3185407



Aren't there 2 of these in the freezer (1 at the top & one at the bottom)? Should I go ahead and replace both (are they the same part #)? BTW, what is a thermistor?
Gene  
#469 Posted : Friday, July 24, 2009 12:16:33 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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I meant the top one. I do not think you have to replace both of them, but it's not going to make it worse if you'll do it. Both of them are identical.

Thermistor is a temperature sensor which changes resistance when temperature changes. The main control board monitors its value and operates with defrost cycle.

Gene.
Mr_Tantrum  
#470 Posted : Friday, July 24, 2009 12:23:54 PM(UTC)
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Mr_Tantrum

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
I meant the top one. I do not think you have to replace both of them, but it's not going to make it worse if you'll do it. Both of them are identical.

Thermistor is a temperature sensor which changes resistance when temperature changes. The main control board monitors its value and operates with defrost cycle.

Gene.


They were cheap enough so I picked up 2 at lunch today from my local parts supplier. What is the best/easiest way to monitor proper operation apart from waiting until everything freezes over? Should I just visually check manually, or is there any way to force a defrost cycle to observe the system in action?
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