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oops, sorry its PFS22S1SBSS now the freezer is 4degrees, was up to 15 degrees. compressor and/or fan is on all day
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Sam, The installation instructions for the new main control board says: "Eliminate thermistor wire in pin 2 of J1 connector." Then is says: "This step is only applicable for the following models: All bottom FREEZER models.". According to your post: Quote:I installed the board, not cutting the thermistor you skip it. That's probably why it's not working properly. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/2/2009(UTC) Posts: 3
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thanks for the reply Gene, you are much appreciated on this site. i didn't cut any wire because there was nothing in that pin location. i unplug and replugged the fridge, got it down to 0, hope its ok
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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You are welcome. I hope so. If it would get worse then post a pictures of the plugs.
Gene.
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Joined: 7/4/2009(UTC) Posts: 1
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hi gene,
I have a GE side by side model # GSS25JFMD WW. the defroster coils in the freezer completley froze up. i disconnected the the wire harness on the bottom left of the main board on the back of the fridge--and Ohmed the defrost wire (best i can tell) with the orange N on the harness on the bottom right of the board and it is reading 22.3 ohms. so i guess from what you posted earlier i'm going to have to get a new board. when i put my model # in the diagram section link from page 1, the board it is showing looks nothing like the one on my fridge. do you have access to or know the part #'s for the board and i guess the thermistors?
thanks howard
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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The main control board you needed is shown as #801 on the diagram. - The part number for the main control board is AP4297272Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/7/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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New to the forums; looking at this sticky, these are the symptoms indeed. It's a neighbor's Whirlpool. I was told GD55HG for a model (haven't looked a the badge myself); this number doesn't come up except as a Gibson disposal, although I saw an old craigslist post using this as a model number indicating the unit is from 2002, so perhaps it's just an outdated number?
At any rate, I cleaned under the unit (a side-by-side) finding a LOT of dirt covering the coils. Also cleaned out a huge frost/ice build-up in the freezer section. Turning it back on, the fridge section isn't that cold, and before thinking a defrost timer or other specific parts, I thought I should pull the freezer panel off and look at the coils in there. Perhaps the underside dirt caused those to ice up so badly as to degrade performance?
On a Magic Chef fridge a couple of years ago, it was a power issue that shorted the evap fan, and replacing that fixed the trouble, but here on the Whirlpool I just wanted to confirm that a de-ice after the cleaning may be all it needs....?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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After a refrigerator has been completely defrosted it takes about 24 hours to get to the right temperature.
In case you need more accurate advice post the complete model number of the refrigerator.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/10/2009(UTC) Posts: 2
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The baffle door assembly on my Kitchenaid refrigerator does not seem to be working, thus the freezer is cold and frig warm. I unscrewed the baffle door assembly and pulled it out. Cold air is blowing through the hole. I can open the baffle door manually, but then it rotates twice, ending in the closed position. Is the opening and closing of this baffle controlled by the thermistor? If so, should replacing the thermistor correct the problem?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/10/2009(UTC) Posts: 5
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i don't know why suction line has snow and Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm , please tell me which part bad
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