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sidfink43  
#11 Posted : Monday, May 3, 2010 9:29:58 AM(UTC)
sidfink43

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See how the drive block thing works out first, and then tackle the brakes. The whole assembly is expensive. You can fix the brakes without buying the whole assembly using the instructions in the Sticky by Richappy. See if the tub will spin by hand when it is in spin mode and trying to spin (engage the lid switch) , and if so, it is not likely to be the brakes.
turnirup!  
#12 Posted : Monday, May 3, 2010 10:24:46 AM(UTC)
turnirup!

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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 Go to Quoted Post
See how the drive block thing works out first, and then tackle the brakes. The whole assembly is expensive. You can fix the brakes without buying the whole assembly using the instructions in the Sticky by Richappy. See if the tub will spin by hand when it is in spin mode and trying to spin (engage the lid switch) , and if so, it is not likely to be the brakes.


Should it spin freely (as if on ball bearings) or with some resistance? If the brakes are sticking will it be froze or very hard to turn? Keep in mind, I'm a pretty big guy (6'5") and have pretty good strength.
sidfink43  
#13 Posted : Monday, May 3, 2010 11:25:57 AM(UTC)
sidfink43

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It should spin freely, even for a little guy like me.

You will be able to tell if the brakes are hanging up.
turnirup!  
#14 Posted : Tuesday, May 11, 2010 7:39:32 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 Go to Quoted Post
Darn, worked once and then went back to the original problem. If it is not the drive block then it must be the brakes hanging up.

Here is a service manual on a model close to yours.

https://secured.whirlpoo...2007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

When you took off the agitator you saw the nut that is taken off to get to the drive block. See page 24.


Okay I took off the brakes, the rollers looked great and pads were not worn much more than the new ones I had gotten, so I greased the rollers, emery clothed the drum and used the cloth on the shoe pads to take off the build up (just a little). I applied a little synthetic oil to the shoes as suggested and reassembled. I had rotated the brake cam several times before and after removal and both times brakes disengaged just fine.

I replaced the drive block only because it was on pretty tough and was a little banged up and corroded. Drive tube tabs fully engaged and nut fully tightened on to spin basket.

I had removed the basket and found the round filter was shreded and had chewed up part of the tub. I removed the rest of the filter (did not have replacement plugs) and scraped and smoothed the tub before replacing the basket and drive block nut.

I rotated the coupler on the tranny and with a couple of twists the basket started to spin. I did this several times. After installing the moter I turned the shaft and again the basket turned. I completed the reassembly.

Started the machine up and it spun like a champ. I would release the lid switch and the brakes engaged smoothly. I did this several times before letting it continue through the cycles. The next spin cycle did not work. I could not get it to spin again.

I took it all apart to make sure nothing had jambed or come loose. this time when I turned the coupler on the tranny it took many, many turns to engage the spin cycle, I almost gave up before it engaged. Also, should say that I noted a small amount of fluid leaking from the top of the tranny (breather hole?) when tipped. put it all back together double checking at every step.

Started it up and it seemed to run even better on the first spin cylce, smooth with little wobble and brakes quiet and smooth, but guess what, that first cyle is all it gave. It sounds like something is spinning and it sounds like the brakes engage when stopping, but the drive tube and basket don't move. The spinning and braking sound, if that is what it is, when the tub is stationary, is not quite as prevelent as it is when the basket spins.

I did not have time to take the enclosure off a third time and jump the lid switch and watch the clutch,brake, drive tube, from underneath. It was way late and I was pretty frustrated. Time to walk away for a bit.

Any more suggestions?
richappy  
#15 Posted : Wednesday, May 12, 2010 3:43:24 AM(UTC)
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You might have a busted nylon gear in the tranny. Turn the coupler on the tranny clockwise. If you feal any roughness, you have a bad gear.
Rather rare, but you just might have a bad clutch mechanism in the tranny.
sidfink43  
#16 Posted : Wednesday, May 12, 2010 3:53:00 AM(UTC)
sidfink43

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What Rich said, but it is somewhat of a mystery why it would work once.. With all that effort you deserved a better outcome!
richappy  
#17 Posted : Wednesday, May 12, 2010 5:13:44 AM(UTC)
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You can pull the cover off the washer, put a jumper in the lid switch socket and run the washer in spin. Watch the clutch housing, if it stops spinning=bad tranny.
turnirup!  
#18 Posted : Tuesday, May 18, 2010 12:33:26 PM(UTC)
turnirup!

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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 Go to Quoted Post
What Rich said, but it is somewhat of a mystery why it would work once.. With all that effort you deserved a better outcome!



The tranny did the trick, finally. Don't know why it would spin sometimes and not others but it's working great now. Guess igot a crash course on direct drive washer repair.

I really apprecitae your help guys!
sidfink43  
#19 Posted : Tuesday, May 18, 2010 4:36:16 PM(UTC)
sidfink43

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You are welcome, glad you got it fixed and see if you can recoup you expenses by fixing someone else's machine. All those Whirlpool, Kenmore, Kitchen Aid, Roper, Estate direct drives are basically the same.
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