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Originally Posted by: jay1028  What is the model number and make of the fridge. ? Thanks for the help. It's: Samsung 4 door RM255LASH
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Rank: Member
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 41
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/15/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6
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Originally Posted by: jay1028 Thank you Jay. I will dig into this and get started. I will probably start a new thread about my issues instead of continously hijacking this thread. I think I will take pics along the way so you can have a better idea what I'm referring to as I go. This message board so far is great. Thanks again for the help.
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Rank: Member
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Posts: 6
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Rank: Member
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RNICK
Just visited the link you gave for the RS267 Samsung. Your write up is the most fantastic thing that you could have done for all us Samsung owners. My fridge is three years old and I have always had problems with the thermistor on the evaporator. I am on my third one now. Seems that there is an improved one that I read about on a UK site and its color is black instead of the white thermistor available here in the US. When I place the thermistor in a bowl of ice, it read 2.5k. It should have been around 12k. At 2.5k, it was reporting that the temperature was over 100 degrees and to terminate the defrost cycle. So the heater did not get energized. I know it is only a matter of time before my heater goes bad, so I ordered the evap assy and will keep it in a safe place until I need the heater. It was interesting to see that the evap assy came with a new thermistor, although it is a white one.
Thanks again for all your help.
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Originally Posted by: RNick This is GREAT!! You are the MAN!! Thanks for posting your research and providing a means to read it easily and understand it. Cuz sum uf us R cavemen and need pikchurres :D
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Originally Posted by: jay1028 Neolamprologus, First let's determine exactly what you are experiencing. Is the freezer ok and the fridge warm? Did you take the cover off the fridge evaporator and see that it is solid ice in the bottom of the coil? I can help more if I know exactly what is happening. Jay Jay, Im in need of help myself with my samsung fridge model RS257BarB. The Fridge is not cold, but the freezer is fine. I took apart the freezer back panel and saw that the evap was covered with ice. I just want to know step by step which sensors to check first. Do I check the defroster first with an meter? Im just not clear on where to start.. Thanks
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ichrisi88, Lets check the easier problem areas first. Go to Samsung Refrigerator Heater Repair (RN's site)RNick has outlined a lot of useful information.with great photos. First look at the photo in Part 1. The temperature sensor has two yellow wires that terminate in a conector. Unplug the connector from the back wall and cut the zip ties so that you can remove the sensor and perform some tests. If you put the sensor in a glass filled with ice and water, you should get a reading of of something in the range of 12K to 13K, which corresponds to a temperature of 32 to 35 degrees F. At room temperature of 77 degrees, the sensor should read around 5K ohms. This test will tell you that the sensor is operating and not stuck at one reading. Next, check the defrost heater resistance. It should read anywhere in the range from 90 to 120 ohms. Unplug the connector that has the red and white wires and measure the resistance. Next check the thermo-fuse. It is a device that is a thermal fuse that protects the unit in case the defrost heater does not turn off at a specified time and temperature. If this device is not working, the defrost heater will not work. Unplug the connector that has the red and black wires. When you short the multimeter leads together when the meter is set to 200 ohms setting, notice the reading. It will be close to zero. Now measure the red and black wires and you should get very close to the same reading as when you touched the multimeter leads together. You can perform these test in any order and not necessarily the order I have posted them.
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Originally Posted by: mdpham01 Got similar problem where the evaporator got iced up, checked the resistance for the defroster ~90 Ohms; thermistor at room temp ~20-30 kOhms and seemed to change as temperature changes. Did FF, fan works just fine. Did Rd, defroster doesn't seem to work, not sure if the forced defrost is depended on the thermistor? I wonder what THERM Part Number: AP4136048 made by SAM does? Does anyone know what the Voltage apply to the defroster? Maybe I can do Rd and try measuring it. Thanks the internal thermistat on the evap coil is a fail safe so that internal temp does not go so high as to spoil product, it shuts off the defrost element yet lets the defrost timer complete its time, then turning on the compressor and resuming cooling. the defrost cycle is necessary even if it is in the refrig section where it should not freeze, however, as we have been reading, there is ice building up therefore the need to defrost. refrig 101 from a happy repair tech in Wisconsin:)
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