Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
My 1.5 year old Samsung Side-By-Side Refrigerator started flashing the temperature in the frig yesterday. It is now showing about 60 degrees in the refrigerator and -10 in the freezer. It shout be 38 and -4. I have run the systems self tests 6 times. Only once did it report that the Condenser-fan had a error, but the fan was running. I unplugged it for 10 minutes, waited for the C-fan to start (about 5 minutes) and then did the self test again - no errors.
This side-by-side features TWO cooling systems (evaporator in Freezer and refrigerator) and are cooled separately. It has fan motors for the condensor, frig, and freezer and 7 thermistor sensors.
Any suggestions on what parts I should replace since it doesn't move cold air from the freezer the the frig with a damper like most side-by-sides?
Thermistor (Freezer)
Thermistor (Freezer/evaporator)
Thermistor (Frig)
Thermistor (Frig/evaporator)
Thermistor (Ambient)
Thermistor (Frig Cool Select Zone)
Thermistor (IceMaker)
Bimetal sensor
Fan-Motor (Condenser)
Fan-Motor (Frig)
Fan-Motor (Freezer)
One last note - The display panel shows 60-64 degrees, but the temp is 5-10 degrees lower in the frig (colder at bottom) and the freezer as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 10/22/2007(UTC)
Posts: 81
|
samsung has had problems with There C-fan overheating, but it sounds like you have a iced up evap in the Fresh Food side Also have to be an electronic technician to test themistors on samsung
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
Well I changed the C-Fan. That didn't fix the problem, so I finally took apart the fresh food side and found the fan was working but it was all iced up so very little air movement. I replaced this frig fan and the thermistor near the top light and cleaned out all the ice. The refrigerator has been working fine for over 8 weeks now. I assume this has fixed the problem.
It is difficult to tell when the fresh food evap is iced up since it is behind all the plastic back wall and insulation. What fooled me was that the fan was still working, but the airflow was restricted by ice in the air flow channels behind the insulation in the fresh food side.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/14/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
Hello, I purchased a Samsung refrigerator from an individual about two weeks ago. The model number is RB2155SH. It is about four years old. The previous owner told me that it was freezing up every couple of days and just wanted it out of his garage. I brought it home and discovered that the freezer fan was not operating so I ordered a replacement and installed it last night. The temp came down and I put it all back togethor again. But this morning the freezer temp is flashing. It's still -2 but it is flashing. I have three questions that should put me in the right direction:
What does the flashing freezer temp mean?
Which sensor in the freezer is wrapped in insulating tape and where should it be positioned?
There is another sensor with a longer cord that is not wrapped in tape, where does it go and what does it do?
Also, there is a third sensor mounted behind the light bulb with blue wires.
Thanks for any help you all provide!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/3/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
Had the exact same issue with my Samsung refrigerator. Called a Samsung tech, as the fridge was still under warranty. Same exact issue as the original post in this thread. Freezer was cold, fridge was not. Fridge side was iced up, with no air movement. Bad thermistor, although I do not know which one or where it is located.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/1/2009(UTC)
Posts: 100
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/4/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
I have a similar issue with my RS2533 side by side. The temp displays 50-60 degrees and is set at 38. The display will sometimes display 38. It is not a loose wire. Any luck with yours or do you have any suggestions? Originally Posted by: ronfellows  My 1.5 year old Samsung Side-By-Side Refrigerator started flashing the temperature in the frig yesterday. It is now showing about 60 degrees in the refrigerator and -10 in the freezer. It shout be 38 and -4. I have run the systems self tests 6 times. Only once did it report that the Condenser-fan had a error, but the fan was running. I unplugged it for 10 minutes, waited for the C-fan to start (about 5 minutes) and then did the self test again - no errors.
This side-by-side features TWO cooling systems (evaporator in Freezer and refrigerator) and are cooled separately. It has fan motors for the condensor, frig, and freezer and 7 thermistor sensors.
Any suggestions on what parts I should replace since it doesn't move cold air from the freezer the the frig with a damper like most side-by-sides?
Thermistor (Freezer)
Thermistor (Freezer/evaporator)
Thermistor (Frig)
Thermistor (Frig/evaporator)
Thermistor (Ambient)
Thermistor (Frig Cool Select Zone)
Thermistor (IceMaker)
Bimetal sensor
Fan-Motor (Condenser)
Fan-Motor (Frig)
Fan-Motor (Freezer)
One last note - The display panel shows 60-64 degrees, but the temp is 5-10 degrees lower in the frig (colder at bottom) and the freezer as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/16/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
Got similar problem where the evaporator got iced up, checked the resistance for the defroster ~90 Ohms; thermistor at room temp ~20-30 kOhms and seemed to change as temperature changes. Did FF, fan works just fine. Did Rd, defroster doesn't seem to work, not sure if the forced defrost is depended on the thermistor? I wonder what THERM Part Number: AP4136048 made by SAM does? Does anyone know what the Voltage apply to the defroster? Maybe I can do Rd and try measuring it. Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/4/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
Got mine fixed. Found that the heater on the refrige evap was bad. Ohmed out and found it to be open. Saw no burns or broken wires. Had to buy the entire evap assy to get the heater. Took off the heater on the new unit and installed it on the original. No need to break the connections on the evap and go through all those issues of reclaiming, sweating new fittings, etc. Heater ohmed out around 70.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/16/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
Thanks for the update jmkinch, it seems my heater still works (not short or open). Will check to see if it gets energized by the PCB, will recheck the therm fuse and thermistor as well.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
