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So a week later they came and were imo not very bright. They were testing for the fan in the rear of the fridge to run with the doors open and it would not run, so they tried to put a magnet on the door switch.
In a nutshell, they replaced a small plug inside the fridge behind the light panel. They were not very forthcoming with information and acted insulted when I asked how that was related to the 22E code the displayed.
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The problem isn't just the thermistor on the evap area the problem is the location where the manufacture has installed that thermistor..........try a new thermistor and move it 8-10 inches on the evap tubing......It's an engineering flaw samsung has and they won't admit it to the public because tons of their new units have this error i wouldn't be suprised if it ends in a recall for this after all the complaints i've seen.
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Hello jmkinch,
I have the same problem on a samsung side by side with twin evaporators. I ohm'd the defroster & got no continuity. Did you do the defroster swap with the assy. in place or loosen it from the chassis somehow? I can't tell if the evap. assy, is riveted or screwed in place. It looks like rivets. I got an estimate of $200 to R&R the entire unit, but I'll have to wait 3-4 days. The evap. assy. runs around $50. Plus I would prefer not tampering with the freon closed system. Your solution sounds easier & simpler. Plus its DIY.
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Originally Posted by: jmkinch  Got mine fixed. Found that the heater on the refrige evap was bad. Ohmed out and found it to be open. Saw no burns or broken wires. Had to buy the entire evap assy to get the heater. Took off the heater on the new unit and installed it on the original. No need to break the connections on the evap and go through all those issues of reclaiming, sweating new fittings, etc. Heater ohmed out around 70. HI jmkinch, I have a Samsung RS253-BABB, side by side. Twin evaporators; fridge side had frozen coils. I can see that that the defrost heater is built onto the evaporator coil as a unit. Did an ohms test on the heater coil & got NO continuity. When you did the defroster swap, were you able to loosen the coil assembly from the chassis or did you do it in place? Last time I looked, I couldn't tell if it was screwed or riveted at the bottom. Any tips or tricks to the procedure? Thanks  
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Originally Posted by: HumboldtRepairMan The problem isn't just the thermistor on the evap area the problem is the location where the manufacture has installed that thermistor..........try a new thermistor and move it 8-10 inches on the evap tubing......It's an engineering flaw samsung has and they won't admit it to the public because tons of their new units have this error i wouldn't be suprised if it ends in a recall for this after all the complaints i've seen. Another one bites the dust here. I have a rs265tdrs/xaa. Fridge side is not cooling. 3 years old. We have a repairman coming on tuesday to look at it. After reading this thread I may look at it today. What would be the reason for moving the thermistor? My guess would be a differrent temp reading triggering difference in defrost cycle. Pretty sad people spend so much money on a fridge and have to re-engineer it. It does not seem like people are having issues with the freezer side. I'm curious what is the difference between the two? Maybe I'll take the freezer apart too and really piss off the wife..lol. Doing some more searching on fixing it came across this thread. Sounds like this guy got pretty creative on a good fix: http://appliantology.org...-samsung-model-rs2555sl/
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Just wanted to let everyone know that the fridge has now been working for more than five (5) years now since I replaced the evaporator thermistor.
Such a small inexpensive part can cause so much damage and frustration.
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Today is 5-27-2015 and the fridge is acting up again. The 38 on the fridge temp is flashing. I knew what to do. I removed the drawers and removed the panel covering the evaporator. Surprise, it was all ice, just like many many years ago. I first checked the thermistor and it was fine reading 5k and the temp was around 70 deg by this time. Next I checked the defrost heater and is was open...no reading, infinite ohms. Fortunately I was smart enough to buy a spare evaporator assy back when I replaced the problematic thermistor on the evaporator in the fridge. This guy is a life saver as he illustrates how to separate out the defrost heater from the evaporator. Entire process took about two hours to get the old heater free, free the new one and install it in the fridge. Follow what he says, it works!! https://sites.google.com/site/rnssite/samsungI don't know why, but after the fridge was powered up again after being down for two hours, the compressor did not start up and after waiting 25 minutes, I did a reset by pressing Power Freeze and Power Cool simultaneously for 10 seconds. It beeps for a while and then the compressor started up and the temperatures slowly began to go down. It was not a fun repair, but it is better than calling the recycle guy to come pick it up.
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I have a Samsung refrigerator that stopped maintaining temperature. It would cool but not get cold - about 45' in Refrigerator. Freezer was getting to about 20' - but not 0. Recently we had major ice buildup in the freezer. I have tested all the temperature sensors and they are showing the correct resistance for the temp. (Tested 2 in refrigerator and one in freezer). I tested the defrost thermal fuses for continuity. The freezer continuity test shows "1" and appears to have failed. The refrigerator was close to "0" which is normal. My question would be would a failed thermal fuse in the freezer cause the refrigerator to also have a problem maintaining temperature ?
Is there anything else that I should test or replace? (Circuit Board)
Model: Samsung RB2155SH
Tested:
Self test showed 00 00
Powered off and warm up to room temp
No ice on coils
Restart resulted in flashing temp panel after a few hours
R Thermistor 1: normal continuity
R thermistor 2: normal
Freezer thermistor: normal
R thermal Fuse: normal (0.0)
F thermal Fuse: failed (1)
R heater resistance: 85 ohms
F heater resistance: 55.8 ohms
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The fridge is separate from cooling and has it's own evap., If the temp sensor fails on fridge side it will freeze up and drain may also freeze up. You have to defrost the drain and from my experience replace the sensor. When testing the resistance on it you can put it in ice water. I'd have to look up the resistance change as it get colder.
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