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Everyone with these poorly designed Samsung units:
I have had fridge evaporator freezing situation for now over two years and this is what I have found to be my problem and how I am solving it. The freezer side is fine and every nine months or so the fridge side hits 59 deg and flashes 38 on the fridge display temp. The fridge defrost temperature sensor that is clamped to the evaporator goes bad. It will read from 2.5k to 5.5k when it is covered with ice after the coil freezes over with ice. After it is dried, it never reads the correct resistance per the temperature sensor table in the repair manual. The sensor is reporting back to the mainboard that the temperature is warm and to terminate the defrost cycle. It will never energize the defrost heater as long as that sensor is reporting that the temperature is already high. I have ordered spare sensors to keep on hand and it solves the problem for another nine months or so. The original sensor (thermistor) was encased in hard plastic. I took it apart and found the small thermistor inside encased in what looked like silicone rtv. Now nine months later, the replacement is bad. Took it apart and it is encased is some hard epoxy and can't get to the thermistor. I don't know what is making these go bad. There is less than 5V going to these sensors which translates to less than a milliamp of current. Looks like they are sealed pretty well. All the thermistors in the fridge have the same spec and just different cable lengths, so if you can't find the one you need online, order any one you can get and splice it in to the yellow wires for the fridge defrost sensor like I did.
Fortunately my defrost heater is still working. Hope this will help some of you.
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I have the same problem like yours and I just don't know how to figure out whether I should replace the sensor (one clipped to the evaporator coils or the one next to the light bulb near the top), the thermostat, or the heater attached to the evaporator. I use a multimeter to test them all, and seems like there's resistance. However, I don't know what reading is supposed to be OK or not and I am not good reading the samsung service mannual....please advise.
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Neolamprologus, First let's determine exactly what you are experiencing. Is the freezer ok and the fridge warm? Did you take the cover off the fridge evaporator and see that it is solid ice in the bottom of the coil? I can help more if I know exactly what is happening. Jay
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I noticed that from some of your other posts that you are having trouble with determining the multi-meter settings. To measure the defrost heater, set the meter to 200 ohms This will read any resistance between 0 to 200 ohms. The defrost heater should be around 100 ohms +_20 ohms. The thermistor( two yellow wires) mounted at the top of the evaporator coil in that white clip should read 5000 ohms at room temp of 77 deg F. If you put in into a small bowl of ice and water, it should then read around 13000 ohms. To read the thermistor, set the meter ohms switch to 20,000 or 20K, then you can read the 5K and 13K values. There is also the thermofuse. Set the meter to the lowest scale and the thermofuse should read cliose to 0 ohms. Basically the same reading as when you touch both meter lead together.
When you do these measurements, unplug the fridge from the wall outlet and remove the connectors from their mating connectors on back wall near the evaporator.
The thermistor you mention at the top of the fridge is for keeping the fridge at the set tremperature and has nothing to do with defrost function.
Let us know what you find.
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Thanks to JMKinch for helping me save a lot of money. My Samsung RS267LASH quit cooling. Temperatures would sometime be reported on the refrigerator side up to 50F+. I called a local repairman. He looked at it for about 15 minutes, took nothing apart, and told me that I needed a new control board. He also suggested replacing the front display all to the tune of more than $500. This didn't seem right, so I then checked this forum. I took the fridge apart. Evaporator was completely iced up. I found out that the heater was open circuit with a multimeter. Then I called the official Samsung repair people in the Houston area. They actually told me that they did not do freon recovery, joint sweating, and refills although Samsung says that this is required. At this point, I took matters into my own hands and took the leap of faith that I could really change out the heater although Samsung says it can't be done. JMKinch is right. It can be done and I took pictures all along the way to document it. Old heater = open circuit. New heater = 95 ohms.
Just FYI. Before the repair, I would get the error code on the front that the defrost cycle had time out after 80 minutes. Makes sense. The heater would come on but not heat so of course it timed out! I'll try to post the pictures soon.
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Rnick,
I don't know why, but I can't find any posts by you or JMKinch concerning photos of the defrost heater replacement.. How about a link.
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Originally Posted by: RNick Thanks to JMKinch for helping me save a lot of money. My Samsung RS267LASH quit cooling. Temperatures would sometime be reported on the refrigerator side up to 50F+. I called a local repairman. He looked at it for about 15 minutes, took nothing apart, and told me that I needed a new control board. He also suggested replacing the front display all to the tune of more than $500. This didn't seem right, so I then checked this forum. I took the fridge apart. Evaporator was completely iced up. I found out that the heater was open circuit with a multimeter. Then I called the official Samsung repair people in the Houston area. They actually told me that they did not do freon recovery, joint sweating, and refills although Samsung says that this is required. At this point, I took matters into my own hands and took the leap of faith that I could really change out the heater although Samsung says it can't be done. JMKinch is right. It can be done and I took pictures all along the way to document it. Old heater = open circuit. New heater = 95 ohms.
Just FYI. Before the repair, I would get the error code on the front that the defrost cycle had time out after 80 minutes. Makes sense. The heater would come on but not heat so of course it timed out! I'll try to post the pictures soon. WOW!! Please post the pics if you find the time later. This could really help me and my family if you don't mind. I need to get my fridge side operating again like it is supposed too. Thanks, Jay
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CavemanbbqWere you able to do any testing to determine what part may be bad? It could be the thermistor, defrost heater or the thermofuse. Have you checked these with a multimeter for the resistance readings? Jay We all know what it is like to be without the fridge.
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Originally Posted by: jay1028 Cavemanbbq Were you able to do any testing to determine what part may be bad? It could be the thermistor, defrost heater or the thermofuse. Have you checked these with a multimeter for the resistance readings? Jay We all know what it is like to be without the fridge. I haven't yet. (Background) My fridge flooded the kitchen. It had a cracked & busted water filter. I replaced it with a new cartridge filter and a few days later it did the same thing and flooded my kitchen again. I then removed the second busted cartridge and unplugged the fridge. I removed a small access panel, at the rear of the fridge on the bottom. Looked in there and saw the coil with a small white fan attached on the left side. This entire unit sits in a small catch pan and it was full of water. I removed the water from the catch pan and plugged the fridge back in the next day. I placed a themometer in the freezer and fridge. The freezer is set for 2*F and after a few hours it leveled off at -20*F and is not moving to what I set it for. The fridge is set for 38*F and it has been at 40*F for several hours. I haven't put another filter cartridge in, because I fear it will freeze again and burst. I don't really know what to do. I have the tools and multimeter to check sensors. I have repaired dryers and washing machines before. I was hoping to see photos of how some of the panels are removed. And where the other evaporator and coils and fans and sensors are. This unit (4 door) is supposed to have separate evaporators for the freezer and fridge. Anyway... any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks, Jay
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What is the model number and make of the fridge. ? I may be able to find you a service manual on the net. That will help a lot. When the fridge powers up after a power failure, it goes to a set of preset values for temperature settings. After a couple of hours, the temps should settle very close to what the front panel settings are set at. I keep mine at 0 and 40 and at power up, the fridge goes to 34 and the freezer to -10. Then everything settles back to the settings. I have never used the Samsung water filter because they are so expensive and hard to find. I just put cover plate supplied in place of the filter and use an inline filter.
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