Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/10/2014(UTC) Posts: 3
|
electric dryer is slow to dry. I checked continuity on heating element and high limit and thermostats and all are OK. heat selector switch seems to work and resistor in switch seems to be ok. The element seems to cycle the same amount of time whether on high or medium. Looks like the "regulator is incorporated into the timer switch. is this correct. Could it be bad or am I looking at another problem. BLower fan is fan and air ducting is free of obstructions.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit? Do you have one?
[COLOR="Blue"]I checked continuity on heating element and high limit and thermostats and all are OK.[/COLOR] Did you check for a grounded element?
[COLOR="Blue"]Looks like the "regulator is incorporated into the timer switch. is this correct. [/COLOR] You lost me here. What regulator are you referring to? The heat regulation is done by the cycling/operating thermostat which is on the blower. It has an internal heater which is turned on for low temperature settings. This adds heat to the thermostat which causes it to cycle more often resulting in lower heat output from the main heater element. [COLOR="Blue"] BLower fan is fan and air ducting is free of obstructions.[/COLOR] To be absolutely sure it is not a vent problem try the following. Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system. Now try a run. If it now dries OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning. Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.
If you do not want any lint in the house. Take a pair of pantyhose. Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent. Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.
Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/10/2014(UTC) Posts: 3
|
Originally Posted by: denman I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit? Do you have one?
I checked continuity on heating element and high limit and thermostats and all are OK. Did you check for a grounded element?
Looks like the "regulator is incorporated into the timer switch. is this correct. You lost me here. What regulator are you referring to? The heat regulation is done by the cycling/operating thermostat which is on the blower. It has an internal heater which is turned on for low temperature settings. This adds heat to the thermostat which causes it to cycle more often resulting in lower heat output from the main heater element.
BLower fan is fan and air ducting is free of obstructions. To be absolutely sure it is not a vent problem try the following. Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system. Now try a run. If it now dries OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning. Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.
If you do not want any lint in the house. Take a pair of pantyhose. Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent. Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.
Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow. I did find a wiring diagram in the switch wiring area. The dryer seems to work the same on medium and high. vent system is clear, I checked again. What regulates the cycling of the element on and off? I understand the thermostat turns the element on and off based on temp. and the heater in the therm. is used for low temp to "trick" the therm sensor into thinking the temp is higher than it really is to cycle more often to keep actual temps down. What regulates the on off time for medium and high? The element is not grounded. I have no continuity between the element and outer housing. Would replacing the operating/cycling thermostat cure the element cycle times on high? The element seems to cycle at the same rate on medium and high.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,806
Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
|
The operating thermostat cycles on/off and determines the exhaust temperature for all three settings. In high heat, voltage is removed from the thermostat heater. In low heat, full voltage is applied to the thermostat heater. In medium heat, the resistor on the back of the temp switch is placed in series with the thermostat heater which reduces the voltage to the thermostat heater.
Eric
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/10/2014(UTC) Posts: 3
|
Originally Posted by: fairbank56 The operating thermostat cycles on/off and determines the exhaust temperature for all three settings. In high heat, voltage is removed from the thermostat heater. In low heat, full voltage is applied to the thermostat heater. In medium heat, the resistor on the back of the temp switch is placed in series with the thermostat heater which reduces the voltage to the thermostat heater.
Eric So If I run the dryer with the back off and check the voltage with my Fluke at the therm. heater it should vary with the temp setting. IF it doesn't then the problem is the heater selector switch or the resistor. If voltage varies the thermostat needs to be replaced.- Don't worry i'll be carefull. I'm used to working around diesel generators.- Thanks
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,806
Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
|
Well, your initial complaint is that the dryer takes too long to dry the clothes which indicates that it either isn't getting hot enough or there is an air flow problem. With temp set to high, there should be no power to the thermostat heater. You really need to check the exhaust air temperature with a thermometer at each temp setting to set a base to work from. You can just disconnect the violet wires from the timer to disable the thermostat heater. If the exhaust temp does not get high enough, then the problem can be due to a heater coil problem, faulty thermostat, air flow problem, low voltage due faulty timer or motor switch contacts...etc. Check for full 240vac across the heater terminals while in normal heat cycle. I know you said you would be careful but I must reiterate that, 240vac can kill you. It's far more dangerous than messing around with 120vac.
Eric
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/11/2014(UTC) Posts: 7
|
The heating element might be 1/2 burned out. Some 240v heating elements are grounded in the middle, and either half can burn out, while the other half continues partial heating. This setup is effectively two 120v heaters working side by side. There are three wires going to this type of heater. Check continuity between the middle ground wire, and each of the two hot wires.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,806
Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: mrdance123 Some 240v heating elements are grounded in the middle, and either half can burn out, while the other half continues partial heating. This setup is effectively two 120v heaters working side by side. There are three wires going to this type of heater. I don't know of any dryer that has that arrangement. Can you give me an example of one? Ground is never intentionally used as a current carrying conductor in a dryers AC circuitry. Eric
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close