Your model number seems incomplete.

Kenmore's are usually 3 digits, a period and then another 8 digits.

Sorry still cannot find anything using that model number.

Perhaps go to the Sears parts site and look up
11096591400

Is that your unit?
If it is I cannot find a wiring diagram, do you have it?
If not have you checked in the control console ofter they store it in there.

Have you checked the power?
The heating element requires the full 240 volts.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

Was the re-wire for a 3 wire to a 4 wire power cord?
If yes then the ground strap that connects the center connector (white) to the machine frame has to be disconnected. Then the white from the new power cord goes to the center connector and the green from the new cord goes to the machine frame.
The red and black stay the same.

The ground should not effect the uit heating as ground/Neutral is not part of the heating element's circuit.

You need a meter and actually measure the voltage, otherwise you could end up tearing the unit apart just to find out after wasting a lot of time that it was a power problem.
Also if the power is OK the meter is a useful tool when troubleshooting parts is the heater circuit.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.

Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.