My washer recently flooded due to low incoming water pressure. It sits in a tub with a 2" lip to prevent water damage to flooring. Unfortunately, when the tub filled with water, it was high enough to fry the motor control board. I replaced the motor control board with an identical used part, and fixed the water pressure issue.

After extensive testing and at least 8 successful complete cycles, everything worked as it should. Then, a few days later, I noticed the LR fault code and now it won't complete the spin cycle. I can manually rotate the drum by hand with no resistance. The washer attempts to spin and tries to get up to speed, but then gives up, activates the drain pump, and attempts again over and over.

I've been reading that Maytag may have redesigned their motor and motor control board to solve similar issues. Is my existing motor compatible with the new motor control board I put in? The part numbers and physical descriptions were identical.

Did I get a bad motor control board? After installing it, it passed all the diagnostic tests and worked properly for a few days. Now when I run the motor speed diagnostic test (with the door locked), it won't do anything. Any suggestions are appreciated. I'm thinking I have another bad motor control board, but I don't want to throw more money at it if I'm missing something.

Thanks for your reply Gene, I appreciate any insight!

The serial number for the washer is 20890410AT

The sticker on the motor control board reads:
Maytag 6 2726410
AKO 544330-07
060105 097 41

The sticker on my original motor control board reads:
Maytag 6 2726410
544 330

Yes, the pictured board looks identical to mine, though the only part numbers I can find on it are the ones I listed above. When the washer flooded, it didn't reach the motor level, although I agree it's possible the control board could have fried it. Are there any tests I can run to pinpoint one or the other? So far I've only done the diagnostic tests from the control panel, but I have a multimeter and can shoot wires... Thanks again Gene!

Here's a closeup picture of my board showing the part numbers I listed.[IMG]https://plus.google.com/photos/111819415292523831427/albums/5810805952903848129?authkey=CIn-_aLkjKKlMg[/IMG]

I can post the schematics and troubleshooting guide that tomorrow.

Initially the machine flooded and the water level saturated the original control board and electrically fried it. The flooded water did not reach the motor. After replacing the control board with a used part, (and fixing the unrelated flooding issue) I ran the washer through a series of self diagnostic checks. The motor passed all tests and spun at the correct rpm as it should. I reassembled everything and did several laundry cycles, and all seemed to work correctly. The next day while doing another cycle, I saw a LR code displayed, indicating a locked rotor. The drum spun fine by hand with normal resistance. I checked the belt and other obvious things, all seemed to be in order. I went back to the diagnostic tests, and now it won't complete a spin cycle. It attempts to spin, but once the rpm's start increasing, the motor slows down, activates the drain pump, then tries to spin again, and again, and again...

Performing the specific motor speed diagnostic test, (after activating the door lock as described in the troubleshooting guide)yields 0 results. Nothing happens except for the sound of a couple relays clicking. No error code or anything. Trying a normal spin cycle does the same ramp up and spin down cycle as described above. I'm going to tear into it again tonight and try to shoot wires and see what kind of output I'm getting from the motor control board.