Ok, well obviously you are new to this but that is good. If your problem is a thermal fuse or thermostat, the diagnosis is easy, the parts are inexpensive and if you succeed you will have saved well over $100 in service call and parts.
First of all, always have the dryer unplugged when you work on it. There are no exceptions to this rule.
Next, here is a site that has good explanations of dryer, how they work and how to work on them.
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.htmlAs far as continuity checks are concerned, read the info on the above site, but also look on the first dryer page near the top on this forum and you will see a link to continuity testing.
You will need an electrical meter. A good one can be had from any hardware store, Sears, Radio Shack etc for about $15 to 20. It is a good thing to have around the house. Learning how to use it can save you big bucks down the road.
The first thing you should test for it to make sure you are getting 240 volts to the dryer. Sometimes the breaker will partly trip and if you are getting 120 the dryer will run but not heat.
You might want to get a friend, acquaintance, etc who is familiar with electrical testing to help you.
I think your dryer is accessible by taking off the rear panel. This will expose the fuses, thermostats etc. Start with the thermal fuse, it is the long, white one and most likely the culprit.
If you find a fuse or thermostat is blown, and even if you don't take the opportunity to thoroughly clean the dryer insides, particularly the venting system. The large majority of problems are cause by partially blocked venting system, and it is dangerous to operate the dryer this way.
You can access parts diagrams by using your model number, without the hypen on the parts section of this site. The nice folks at AppliancePartsPro will help you get parts, they have great prices and ship immediately, and no I do not work for them.
Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
