Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2013(UTC)
Posts: 8
|
performed test. jumped H&T with 14G wire. Nothing happened.
did LED code test.
First time: steady light for 5 seconds
2nd, 3rd, 4th times:3 pulses
my freezer doesn't have bail arm lever, just a switch to slide "on - off"
don't know how to check circuits
components looks fine
feezer reading ~20 deg. so maybe it just needs to get back down to under 12deg?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
"the bail arm switch" means the on-off switch inside the ice maker head. There is a slot where the arm goes. Inset a flat blade screwdriver into the slot and turn it CCW and CW.
The ice maker has build it thermostat which reads temperature inside the freezer. 20°F is definitely not cold enough for the normal ice maker performance. The normal temperature in the freezer is about 0°F.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2013(UTC)
Posts: 8
|
I checked the bail arm slot. turned it cw and it springs back to original position- seems normal.
Temp has been zero for days and no ice.
I think it is the dual water inlet valve on back of fridge. I tested water dispenser side and I got 365 ohms.
Ice maker side doesn't register any electrical current.
So should I try replacing the ice maker part of inlet valve assembly?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: mcdbones  ...turned it cw and it springs back to original position- seems normal... It does not have any springs and should stay in position where you turned it. I did not specify and you did not mention too - cw looking from what side? It should be cw looking from the front of the ice maker. Redo it please. This problem (no power and 3 pulses) has nothing to do with the water valve. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2013(UTC)
Posts: 8
|
Gene, I want to be sure I am turning the right piece. As I look into the freezer it's on the upper left side of ice maker facing toward the fridge side (right side). It is roughly a 10mm hole with a plastic plug in it which has an oval slot into which it looks like the bail arm would go (if we had a bail arm). I insert a screwdriver and turn clockwise. As soon as I let go of screwdriver it springs ccw back into original position. I have included a picture of what I think is the bail arm switch. Am I turning the correct piece? If not, please describe location of bail arm switch since my freezer doesn't have a bail arm and I don't see any other logical spot for one to go. " disregard this post and see next post" mcdbones attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2013(UTC)
Posts: 8
|
Gene,
Okay so after taking the ice maker apart to see how the mechanics worked I know understand the on/off bail arm switch. It is connected to a lever that is connected to a spring so that must have been what I was feeling. I just wasn't turning enough because I didn't want to break anything. I believe turning CW until it locks in place in a somewhat horizontal position is the "OFF" position and CCW releases it to return to the more vertical "ON" position you see in previous post (that entire pic got rotated 90deg CCW)
I tried jumping H&T again, but got no water. Tines turn though. Does freezer have to be at certain temp to call for water even when jumped?
I have tried the diagnostic again with the switch in both positions. I have gotten mixed results. One time(in ON position) I got the long 5 second steady red signaling all is ok. But now no matter which position I have switch in I get the 3 pulses led signal.
The tines seem to be rotating around because between tests I keep noticing they are in different positions. The water has never been triggered yet.
I don't understand what the following two checks are saying:
*"check ice maker circuit and the connections back to the receiver board and neutral" (where is the circuit, how do I test?) (connections?, receiver board?)
*"check the ice maker components" (which components and what am I checking for?)
**Now it gives me the 5 second steady light again, but still no water**
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
I'm afraid the new ice maker is defective. You have to talk to the customer service.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2013(UTC)
Posts: 8
|
so how would one go about testing a bad water valve?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Swap the wires between the water valve solenoids. Push the water dispenser lever for a few seconds and for water in the ice maker. If there is no water then the water valve is bad. - The water inlet valve kit Part number: W10247725
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2013(UTC)
Posts: 8
|
when i switched the wires no water ever came to ice maker. however, the water dispensor suddenly started dispensing water. seems like the ice maker must have called for water and set off the dispensor. and ice maker makes cubes and dumps them in the bin when i manually fill it.
so let me know if im wrong but sounds like the ice maker is functioning and its the valve thats gone bad. i will order a new one and post results.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
