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Code(upside down FE) manual says thermosensor. I was also told to change control panel. We replaced both and we are still getting same code. What else could it be.:confused:
Thermossensor DC32-00010A
Control Panel MFS-F2WLA-T0 / AP4244507
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Originally Posted by: voneta  Code(upside down FE) manual says thermosensor. I was also told to change control panel. We replaced both and we are still getting same code. What else could it be.:confused:
Thermossensor DC32-00010A
Control Panel MFS-F2WLA-T0 / AP4244507 Voneta, You're on the right track, you've done the proper (reccomended)procedure. But, With what you've done, the only thing leftto do, would be to check for damaged wires between the thermosensor and the control board. And check and make sure all your connections are proper and tightly locked into the board connector. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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We replaced the thermosensor with no luck. We've unplugged all connections no change. We have an ohm meter but my husband doesn't think he will be able to check because he thinks he has to turn switches on and then he doesn't know if they should read open or not. Is this something we can do?
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Originally Posted by: voneta We replaced the thermosensor with no luck. We've unplugged all connections no change. We have an ohm meter but my husband doesn't think he will be able to check because he thinks he has to turn switches on and then he doesn't know if they should read open or not. Is this something we can do? Voneta, Glad you have a meter, it'll make things easier. Your husband, doesn't have to consider switches for this test. He does have to make sure he unplugs the power cord,so he doesn't get shocked, Once he gets access to the control board, Unplug connector CN3 , across pin 3(white) and pin 6(orange)on the wire connector, he should have a resistance reading of 10 to 13000 ohms resistance at room temperature, if the wires and the sensor are OK. Also, at RY9(heater relay) pin 1 (red) pin 2 (dbl white) across the two wires, he should read a closed(infinite resistance)circuit, if the heater and fuse are OK. On rare occasions, a water temperature that's too cold, and a slow fill situation can cause a heater fail code, I don't think that's your problem, but it's a possibilty. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Voneta,
Glad you have a meter, it'll make things easier.
Your husband, doesn't have to consider switches for this test.
He does have to make sure he unplugs the power cord,so he doesn't get shocked,
Once he gets access to the control board,
Unplug connector CN3 , across pin 3(white) and pin 6(orange)on the wire connector, he should have a resistance reading of 10 to 13000 ohms resistance at room temperature, if the wires and the sensor are OK.
Also, at RY9(heater relay) pin 1 (red) pin 2 (dbl white) across the two wires, he should read a closed(infinite resistance)circuit, if the heater and fuse are OK.
On rare occasions, a water temperature that's too cold, and a slow fill situation can cause a heater fail code, I don't think that's your problem, but it's a possibilty.
Good Luck,
:) :) :) Joe, I first want to THANK YOU for helping us with this stipud washer. My husband was able to check the CN3 with a reading of 11.94. However, the RY9 is optional and ours is sealed over with that coating so we were unable to check that one. But I have a question? We get this code even when we turn on the unit without starting the wash cycle. We are able to start the cycle and the unit starts filling with water and then we get the code. It doesn't matter whether we just brought it to life or put it in spin mode or started a wash cycle. I know it's prolly hard to say but do you really think this has to do with temperture. We are at wits ends. If we had money enough to go buy a new one (a different brand, of course) we would but we don't. Do you have any other thoughts. I really appreciate all your help. Voneta
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Originally Posted by: voneta Joe, I first want to THANK YOU for helping us with this stipud washer. My husband was able to check the CN3 with a reading of 11.94. However, the RY9 is optional and ours is sealed over with that coating so we were unable to check that one. But I have a question?
We get this code even when we turn on the unit without starting the wash cycle. We are able to start the cycle and the unit starts filling with water and then we get the code. It doesn't matter whether we just brought it to life or put it in spin mode or started a wash cycle. I know it's prolly hard to say but do you really think this has to do with temperture. We are at wits ends. If we had money enough to go buy a new one (a different brand, of course) we would but we don't. Do you have any other thoughts.
I really appreciate all your help.
Voneta Voneta, Thats the way the control board is designed, As soon as you touch a button, and the display lights up, it starts to run a " test" check on all the components and circuits in the machine, if the "chip" on the control board "sees" what it's looking for it runs the cycle. If it does not, it displays a fail code. In your case the "tE" code means, that it is not seeing the proper resistance from the thermistor circuit (11.9k ohms is in range, 10 to 13k ohms). Here are some, low / DC voltage checks at the control board, you can make, Thermistor Check
Check Voltage at Pin #6 and #3 of CN3
Tester Check = DC2.5V
If it reads 5V, check if its connector is engaged properly.
Water Sensor Check
Check Voltage and Frequency at Pin #6 and #7 of CN3
Reset water level = DC2.5V, 25.8KHz
Check Voltage and Frequency at Pin #6 and #8 of CN3
Reset water level = DC2.5V, 25.8KHz
Sump Sensor Check
Check Voltage at Pin #4 and #2 of CN8
Tester Check = DC0V or 3.75V
Check Voltage at Pin #4 and #3 of CN8
Tester Check = DC0V or 3.75V
:) :) :)
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