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Dry runs but does not heat. No obstruction. Had broken wire from one of the heating coil. Repaired, still no heat.
Presume that a fuse is blown but find none.
Gerry
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC)
Posts: 2,277
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/5/2007(UTC)
Posts: 12
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Thank you. We have been having some problems with brown outs recently. The circuit breaker is not tripped. However, I will check the voltage this afternoon and get back to you.
Gerry
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/5/2007(UTC)
Posts: 12
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Voltage tests at 120 on each side of the terminal on back of the unit. Using the common in the middle, I tested each side and got the same reading on each.
Thank You
Gerry
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC)
Posts: 2,277
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There is a thermo fuse on the heating element and the blower housing.
You can check them with a ohm meter. They should be closed (shorted) if the are ok.
If one is open (like a bad fuse) then replace it.
If you find a bad one you can jump the two wires out just for testing to see if it heats.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/5/2007(UTC)
Posts: 12
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There are three thermal fuses on the unit. Two on the blower cover and one on the heating unit.The two on the blower housing have three tabs. The 2 outside tabs show continuity on each. No continuity on the third tab. It seems to connect the two fuses.
The Thermal fuse on the heating unit has two tabs and it shows continuity.
Each shows continuit to the one on the heating uint and the upper connection to the heating element. Testing the heating element shows continuity between both terminals.
Still no heat.
Thank you
Gerry
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC)
Posts: 2,277
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Then you need to check for 240 volts at the heater when it is running.
If you have voltage there, then something is not yet right with the heating element.
If you do not have voltage you will have to trace it back to were you do.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/5/2007(UTC)
Posts: 12
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Thank you
Can I test this by checking voltage across both ends of the heater element while the unit is running? I suspect the main black wire attached to one of the heater coil posts. It comes from behind the drum. It may have pulled out. on the far end. Does it come from the timer switch in the header panel? Initially this wire was broke and I repaired it. I may have pulled it too hard for access for the repair.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/5/2007(UTC)
Posts: 12
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I tested across the heater coil posts with the unit running and found that I had no voltage at the coil. I will trace the main wire back to see where it is failing.
Thanks
Gerry
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/5/2007(UTC)
Posts: 12
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I have continuity from the timer switch to the heater coil tracing the black wire. I also have continuity from the black wire on the power block to the heater panel.
Could it be the timer?
Thank you
Gerry
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