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Ted/APP Team  
#21 Posted : Tuesday, January 3, 2012 6:03:28 AM(UTC)
mattt

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Hi Sir. I really need to say that if you can Please call A.P.P. Call Center 1-877-477-7278 to work out an exchange. Sorry about the inconvenience. Thank You.





Originally Posted by: gmsnowball Go to Quoted Post
So, I have to buy another fan motor just to get the fan blade and bracket? Isn't there a fan blade (plastic) and just the bracket for this motor?
gmsnowball  
#22 Posted : Thursday, January 5, 2012 7:18:26 AM(UTC)
gmsnowball

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Originally Posted by: Ted/APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Hi Sir. Please disregard my last reply. We have located a much better solution to this issue. There is a complete fan and bracket assy. Part number: AP4330510
Part number: AP4330510
availiable to use. Just a note to make sure that you pull the condenser air out of the coils and across the top of the compressor to get the most efficient cooling performance. Thank You.



Received the fan blade a day after ordered, thanks for the fast ship. When you say pull the condenser air out of the coils are you saying pull the air from the front of the refrigerator or make sure the blade is pulling air not pushing air. The plastic fan will only install one way which pulls air, is this correct?
Ted/APP Team  
#23 Posted : Thursday, January 5, 2012 11:33:27 AM(UTC)
mattt

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Hi. Yes exactly. Your model will pull air from one side(half) of the front toe grill across (or through) the condenser coils and across the compressor area, finally pushing the air out the front grill on the opposite side. Keeping the back cover clean along with the coils and the fan blade is very imortant for proper air flow direction. This is also why the drain pan is no longer used on most models because they utilize a solid compressor base support and the warm air movement evaporates the defrost water. Thank You.





Originally Posted by: gmsnowball Go to Quoted Post
Received the fan blade a day after ordered, thanks for the fast ship. When you say pull the condenser air out of the coils are you saying pull the air from the front of the refrigerator or make sure the blade is pulling air not pushing air. The plastic fan will only install one way which pulls air, is this correct?
gmsnowball  
#24 Posted : Thursday, January 5, 2012 4:51:54 PM(UTC)
gmsnowball

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Joined: 12/19/2011(UTC)
Posts: 15

Originally Posted by: Ted/APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Hi. Yes exactly. Your model will pull air from one side(half) of the front toe grill across (or through) the condenser coils and across the compressor area, finally pushing the air out the front grill on the opposite side. Keeping the back cover clean along with the coils and the fan blade is very imortant for proper air flow direction. This is also why the drain pan is no longer used on most models because they utilize a solid compressor base support and the warm air movement evaporates the defrost water. Thank You.



Thanks. this is good info
Ted/APP Team  
#25 Posted : Friday, January 6, 2012 4:21:09 AM(UTC)
mattt

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Hi. Now that it has been 24 hrs or so, has the unit become more stable? Thank You.





Originally Posted by: gmsnowball Go to Quoted Post
Thanks. this is good info
gmsnowball  
#26 Posted : Tuesday, January 17, 2012 5:47:50 AM(UTC)
gmsnowball

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Made a bracket for the fan and installed the relay. Fan works fine and the compressor is warm but still doesn't get cold. The fan inside the freezer works fine. I set the freezer on 1 and the refrigerator side to 38 but it didn't get cold after about 6 hours. The compressor is warm to mildly hot but doesn't seem to kick on or off, no clicking noises. I thought I saw the refrigerator lights dim for just a second after I first plugged it in after the fan had been running for a minute or so. Now what?
Ted/APP Team  
#27 Posted : Tuesday, January 17, 2012 10:05:01 AM(UTC)
mattt

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Hi. This is what you can do. The compressor should be warm/hot to the touch (as not to fry an egg off it). There should not be any hard "clicking" noise from the relay as you mentioned it is not doing. Indicating either faulty run relay and / or a bad compressor windings that may ohm out normal and not shorted but under a load it can act different as with all electrical devices. Are you sure the condenser coils aren't dirty. If so use a condenser cleaning brush part # Part number: AP4320046
Part number: AP4320046
and a shop vac. to clean all. These coils need constant clean and proper air flow to release just the right amount of heat to not boil the freon as it passes through it. Condenser coils and the filter drier should remain warm to the touch. If they are not then it is rare for a condenser coils to be plugged or restricted but if you feel a cold spot after any certain point it may be evidence. If the filter drier is more horizontal then vertical, it mave be a good idea to carefully position It at more of a 45° angle.This allows the freon to flow better and the device to trap moisture and debris better. If it is cold then you have a restriction that needs a sealed system repair. Filter drier part # Part number: AP3135773
Part number: AP3135773
. Now then, when you are looking at the freezer evaporator coils, are you sure that they are completely frosted over from one end to the other. If there is a ice ball there it is a tell tale sign of a restriction. If that all is fine and the freezer fan is turning to speed then you need to inspect the damper motor part # Part number: AP3084126
Part number: AP3084126
. If it is closed then you will not reach fresh food temperatures of 37 - 45°. If the freezer thermister measures 10% more than 10,000 ohms it is part # Part number: AP3745265
Part number: AP3745265
. The same is in the fresh food area. These allow the controls to let the temperatures to be regulated with the compressor,fans and damper assy. Are the controls are not displaying any fault codes ? I also believe you did get the correct condensor motor as previously ordered. The motor has 2 -offset screw bosses that align correctly with the mount. So you will install the motor in set with the bracket as it is shown in the picture with the lt. and rt. folded sides. The shaft will go through this side and out the other. This is so the fan blade will not interfere with the mount sides while in rotation. Then one bottom end will slide into an open slot on the base as the other mount leg wlii be held in place with a screw. The electrical connection will push on and lock. Thank You.







Originally Posted by: gmsnowball Go to Quoted Post
Made a bracket for the fan and installed the relay. Fan works fine and the compressor is warm but still doesn't get cold. The fan inside the freezer works fine. I set the freezer on 1 and the refrigerator side to 38 but it didn't get cold after about 6 hours. The compressor is warm to mildly hot but doesn't seem to kick on or off, no clicking noises. I thought I saw the refrigerator lights dim for just a second after I first plugged it in after the fan had been running for a minute or so. Now what?
gmsnowball  
#28 Posted : Tuesday, January 17, 2012 2:53:03 PM(UTC)
gmsnowball

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The coils are clean and the freezer coils have no ice on them. How long should I leave the refrigerator on to normalize? I have it in the garage now and it is about 40 degrees in there. I turned it off at the control panel and waited a few minutes then turned it back on. I heard a couple of clicks and the light inside the freezer went dim for a split second. Now the new compressor fan is no running. I think I will let it run overnight and see what happens.
Ted/APP Team  
#29 Posted : Wednesday, January 18, 2012 4:24:43 AM(UTC)
mattt

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Hi. The first thing you need to do is get it out of the garage cold temperature's. They are only designed to work properly at temperature between 70 and 90°. If you absolutely have to set it on its side for movemernt, you need to give it at least 24 hrs for the compressor oil to restabilize back down into the compressor bottom for proper start up and system normal recovery. If you do not lay it on its side, wait at least 5-min. so the reed valve pressures equalize for the comporessor to start up. What are the code(s) shown on the temperature L.E.D.'s showing ? The temperature control board is Part number: AP3177964
Part number: AP3177964
. What is my concern is that you have a bad main control board which at any device start up is shorting and allowing a "dim" cavity light or delayed start up. This also may be why the sealed system is not working up to speed as the compressor may not be able to get all the curent required for proper operation. The main control board isPart number: AP4343773
Part number: AP4343773
. Look at these4 connections to make sure they are all tight. Examine the board to verify no burnt traces. Let us know the codes. Look at the kick grill in front or at the control board that has a folded
tech sheet to assist. you. Thank You.






Originally Posted by: gmsnowball Go to Quoted Post
The coils are clean and the freezer coils have no ice on them. How long should I leave the refrigerator on to normalize? I have it in the garage now and it is about 40 degrees in there. I turned it off at the control panel and waited a few minutes then turned it back on. I heard a couple of clicks and the light inside the freezer went dim for a split second. Now the new compressor fan is no running. I think I will let it run overnight and see what happens.
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#30 Posted : Tuesday, October 11, 2022 7:47:54 PM(UTC)
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Which way do I install fan in refrigerator over coils
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