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AmishMan  
#21 Posted : Wednesday, September 2, 2020 4:13:54 PM(UTC)
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AmishMan

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We just experienced this issue on our Kitchen Aid refrigerator that is about 4 years old. Unplugging the drawer control panel allowed the refrigerator to work as expected. However, while cleaning the refrigerator before reassembly, I noticed that one of the wires that runs to the panel was actually broken. The wire had broken in half about a foot and a half back from the connector. At first, it wasn't noticeable because there is a protective sleeve over the wire harness. I was able to push back the sleeve to find the other end of the wire and splice it back together. Once I did that and plugged the control panel back in the refrigerator continued to work as expected.

I suggest the others experiencing this issue check the wiring harness for broken wires as well.
Jamal W  
#22 Posted : Sunday, November 15, 2020 4:46:24 PM(UTC)
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Jamal W

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My 5 door KitchenAid refrigerator KRMF606ESS00 was going crazy.

I had several problems at once. The refrigerator's door ajar signal kept beeping repeatedly even though all doors were clearly closed. Deli drawer panel buttons were non responsive. Plus, the water/ice dispenser and the deli drawer panel only intermittently worked. Sometimes it even dispensed water upon opening the deli drawer. Lights inside the fridge were often off when I opened the left door. There appeared to be no communication between any of the sensor or end functions on the big upper left door and deli drawer. Repairing the wire harness completely fixed all issues.

Turns out, 3 of the 5 wires were broken in my wire harness. Depending on where the the break is, it may be hard for someone to see this just by opening the deli drawer. My wires were broken way in the back... not within easy access. In my opinion, this problem happens because of a KitchenAid design flaw where the harness can be caught in a groove within the deli drawer slide assembly so that when you close the drawer sometimes the wires get cut. The nylon sleeve that KitchenAid uses over the harness wires isn't stiff enough to prevent the wire assembly from a) sneaking into the slide assembly grooves or b) protecting the trapped wires from being cut inside the slide assembly when you close the drawer.

If you go through the trouble of doing this procedure, be sure to add some protective wire wrap tubing. Whether you repair the wires yourself like I did or buy a brand new wire harness, you can stuff all the wires including the nylon sleeve into the tubing. It'll prevent the wires from being caught in the slide assembly. I wish KitchenAid engineers would have done this in the initial design. It would have saved me and others some aggravation, money and probably improve their reputation.

FYI...instead of buying a new wire harness I was able to reconnect the broken wire ends with butt connectors (10 pack for $1.50 at Harbor Freight). The 1/4" wire wrap tubing costs $3.50. Use some electrical tape around some of the tubing if you want to keep things bundled up neatly. You can fix this problem for $1.50 but spend another $3.50 to prevent it from happening again.

Helpful YouTube video guide on how to replace wire harness:


Thanks to everyone who commented earlier. It really helped me diagnose the problem and ultimately fix it.

Edited by user Sunday, November 15, 2020 4:51:50 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

kitchenaidinator47  
#23 Posted : Friday, December 11, 2020 5:00:25 AM(UTC)
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kitchenaidinator47

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Finally a forum response that answers an issue!

Thanks all for the input on this. I'm having the same issue. Control quit working, lights don't work, deli drawer controls not working. Then the fridge dings and everything is fine again. Going to check out the wiring harness this weekend and see what I find.

Model KRMF706EBS01
Joel K  
#24 Posted : Thursday, January 14, 2021 1:53:26 PM(UTC)
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Joel K

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thanks to all for this, been beating my head against the wall trying to speak to someone at kitchenaid (Whirlpool) with no luck at all.
Peter Koo  
#25 Posted : Sunday, February 28, 2021 2:09:57 PM(UTC)
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Peter Koo

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My Fridge is KRMF706ESS00.

I had the similar issue this morning when my daughter was telling me that the lights in the fridge stopped working. Right away, I was alarmed since they may mean that the freezer is also not working. I checked the fridge and sure enough, the light is not working when doors are opened. I tried the water and ice dispenser and they are also not working. The ice dispenser control panel is working so that I know the AC power is working. I also checked the left drawer and did not see any led light lid on the control panel. After reading some of the post, I decide to check the five wire cable assembly for kinks or cuts. The cable seems to be find without any sign of external damage. After checking out the video on how to remove the wire harness, decided it is too involved to perform that task with all the food still inside the Fridge. I happened to read someone removed the crisp drawer (the left drawer) control panel and unplug the two wire connector and it started working. I saw the video on how to remove the drawer control panel and it seems to be easy. I follow the instruction and removed the control panel. After looking at the control panel, I agreed that there is over engineering on this fridge. I removed the two wire connector which I believe is the power to the panel and left the other connector connected. After plugin in AC power, I noticed the led lights inside the fridge started to work but the water dispenser is still not working. I decided to remove AC power and unplug the three wire connector on the control panel and also plug and unplug 2-3 times to make sure the connection is solid. After I done this, I plugged all two connector back into the control panel and re-apply the AC power, right away, I noticed that the fridge seemed different from before, after 2-3 seconds, i heard the compressor kicks in and starts to hums. I checked the led lights inside the fridge, they are working, then I check the water dispenser and it started to work. Last thing I checked is the control panel on the left drawer and the one of the led is on and by pressing the select button, the led moved from one setting to the next.

I don't know what happened but it seems there may be some back contact of some sort the stopped the left drawer control panel from working. Once this control panel stops working, the entire fridge stops to work. We got this fridge around 2016, so it is around 4-5 years old. I am concerned with all these electronic control panel having issues in the future. We still have our original GE fridge sitting in our garage and that fridge is almost 28 years old and have two heating coil replaced in the past 28 years. No fancy electronics and just simple fridge.

I hope this experience helps anyone with this type of fridge.
BillyIDle  
#26 Posted : Tuesday, March 9, 2021 1:42:27 PM(UTC)
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BillyIDle

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So we are also lucky winners of this lovely problem!!

Just started today,

Door open fault.
No lights inside
No water/ice being dispensed

took the draw off and all the connectors look solid.
It doesnt look to hard to remove the wire harness because the video takes the whole thing apart, I don't see why I cant take it out with just the removal of the meats draw as it gives me access to the harness. The I guess I'll start with inspecting the harness for continuity and see what shakes out.

What I am not sure of is if the Door Open light is on does this shut the fridge and freezer down?

thanks
Guest  
#27 Posted : Friday, April 9, 2021 4:43:45 PM(UTC)
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Guest

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Same issue here! How did everyone resolve?
Guest  
#28 Posted : Friday, April 9, 2021 4:44:42 PM(UTC)
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Guest

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Same issue here! How did everyone resolve? Can someone call or text me. 419-769-2886
Guest  
#29 Posted : Saturday, April 10, 2021 5:47:50 PM(UTC)
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Guest

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I found one wire to be broke in the harness on mine. Just follow it back when you unplug it and pull the protective sheathing back. Fixed it with a butt connector and heat shrink. All good for now!
Guest  
#30 Posted : Saturday, April 17, 2021 10:29:02 AM(UTC)
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Guest

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I had the same issue as everyone else here seems to be having. I ordered the wiring bracket that Jamal W. listed in his post and followed the video ha also listed. Took me about 90 minutes to switch out the harness and now everything is running fine.
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