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Joined: 2/27/2020(UTC) Posts: 0  Location: TX Thanks: 1 times
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My KitchenAid refrigerator model KRMF706ESS01 purchased in 2017 also had a problem with the lights in all compartments going out, odd issues with the water and ice dispensers not working, and the open door red light would stay on, and of course chirp, even when everything was closed. I could press the water dispenser and nothing would come out, but if I then opened the left drawer water would spray out on the floor and into the left drawer. Resetting main power did not help. But, I discovered that the left drawer seemed to be the source of the problem. I could fiddle with the drawer or the cable on the left underside of the drawer and make the problems go away. The comments in this forum led me to removing the the control panel on the left drawer by prying around the edges (top side of the panel first) with putty knife and simply disconnecting the two cable connectors from the circuit board on the back on the panel. Then, I re-inserted the disconnected panel. All problems are solved. I can no longer adjust anything with that control panel but the drawer is still usable, the same temp as the main refrigerator which hovers around 38-40 degrees (even though I have it set for 33 degrees). I'm OK with that the drawer control panel not working because a replacement costs $300 - $360. Possible cause: water had been getting into the space behind that control panel anytime water drip onto the left drawer. The seal around the control panel is poor at best. Water may have ruined the circuit board (even though it appears to be sealed) connected to the control panel. Thanks to this forum for helping me avoid a large repair bill. Edited by user Thursday, February 27, 2020 4:57:36 PM(UTC)
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Joined: 3/1/2020(UTC) Posts: 0
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I'm having the same problem. Removing the plugs works for me too. I cannot believe it is 270 for the panel. I came here to find out about how to test the wires coming in because the space for the board is completely dry.
There is a cable that has a continuity test sticker on it. Any tips specific to the KRMF706ESS01 would be appreciated.
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I unplugged the same cable and everything was working fine but now my water won't dispense. My ice still does. Did anyone else have this problem?
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Me too! Lights are back on, ice works, but not water. ?
Any help would be much appreciated! Contacted manufacturer but not super helpful.
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Update: ice also not working. I think the ice worked at first because it was whatever was leftover.
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Joined: 7/16/2020(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: Georgia
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Has anyone figured this out? I am having the same issue and not sure which part to buy...I have unplugged both the wire behind the door and pried the panel up on the drawer and disconnected it...then I turned off for more than 10 minutes and turned back on:
The drawer selection panel has been out for a year or so, so don't think replacing that will fix the new situation? since the other functions worked for so long previously
a few days ago in the beginning: just off and restarting for a few days all functions working
New symptoms:
No lights inside the refrigerator and not cooling anymore
When moving the left drawer out...lights on upper main panel come on and beeps..sometimes lights stay on permanently sometimes nothing.
When the lights stay on:
No Water
NO Ice
light works high, low and off
can set temp and showroom switch, etc
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/16/2020(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: Georgia
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This part did not fix my issue: W10624574 wpw10624574 Whirlpool Refrigerator Electronic power supply board. This is the smaller board on top.
I will try main control board next and let everyone know.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/16/2020(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: Georgia
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Main board did not fix all the issues, but is not cooling
I replaced the front panel because when you cold the temp adjust button for 3 seconds it would flash...new panel fixed this issue but still not water or ice.
Remaining issues:
LED lights not working...probably the Led Board...
No water or Ice...not sure why these are not working still
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/2/2020(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: MA
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We just experienced this issue on our Kitchen Aid refrigerator that is about 4 years old. Unplugging the drawer control panel allowed the refrigerator to work as expected. However, while cleaning the refrigerator before reassembly, I noticed that one of the wires that runs to the panel was actually broken. The wire had broken in half about a foot and a half back from the connector. At first, it wasn't noticeable because there is a protective sleeve over the wire harness. I was able to push back the sleeve to find the other end of the wire and splice it back together. Once I did that and plugged the control panel back in the refrigerator continued to work as expected.
I suggest the others experiencing this issue check the wiring harness for broken wires as well.
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Joined: 11/15/2020(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: Seattle
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My 5 door KitchenAid refrigerator KRMF606ESS00 was going crazy. I had several problems at once. The refrigerator's door ajar signal kept beeping repeatedly even though all doors were clearly closed. Deli drawer panel buttons were non responsive. Plus, the water/ice dispenser and the deli drawer panel only intermittently worked. Sometimes it even dispensed water upon opening the deli drawer. Lights inside the fridge were often off when I opened the left door. There appeared to be no communication between any of the sensor or end functions on the big upper left door and deli drawer. Repairing the wire harness completely fixed all issues. Turns out, 3 of the 5 wires were broken in my wire harness. Depending on where the the break is, it may be hard for someone to see this just by opening the deli drawer. My wires were broken way in the back... not within easy access. In my opinion, this problem happens because of a KitchenAid design flaw where the harness can be caught in a groove within the deli drawer slide assembly so that when you close the drawer sometimes the wires get cut. The nylon sleeve that KitchenAid uses over the harness wires isn't stiff enough to prevent the wire assembly from a) sneaking into the slide assembly grooves or b) protecting the trapped wires from being cut inside the slide assembly when you close the drawer. If you go through the trouble of doing this procedure, be sure to add some protective wire wrap tubing. Whether you repair the wires yourself like I did or buy a brand new wire harness, you can stuff all the wires including the nylon sleeve into the tubing. It'll prevent the wires from being caught in the slide assembly. I wish KitchenAid engineers would have done this in the initial design. It would have saved me and others some aggravation, money and probably improve their reputation. FYI...instead of buying a new wire harness I was able to reconnect the broken wire ends with butt connectors (10 pack for $1.50 at Harbor Freight). The 1/4" wire wrap tubing costs $3.50. Use some electrical tape around some of the tubing if you want to keep things bundled up neatly. You can fix this problem for $1.50 but spend another $3.50 to prevent it from happening again. Helpful YouTube video guide on how to replace wire harness: Thanks to everyone who commented earlier. It really helped me diagnose the problem and ultimately fix it. Edited by user Sunday, November 15, 2020 4:51:50 PM(UTC)
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