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Hi...
Just ran into a problem with my Washer. It will not fill up except in the Hot/Cold Temp Setting. It will rinse in any temp setting except warm/warm. I have noticed the last few weeks there was a slight delay when I started machine and when warm/cold setting was selected (the cold would start and the hot water would take a few extra seconds to kick on.)
They have already changed the water inlet valve but no go, same situation. The repair people don't seem to have a clue!
Hot/Cold - 100% Working
Warm/Warm - 0% Working
Warm/Cold - Washer will not fill but will rinse/spin cycle
Cold/Cold - Washer will not fill but will rinse/spin cycle
Thanks, Rick
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Sounds like a faulty temp switch or temp control board, most likely the switch. Does it matter if the auto temp button is in or out? Set washer to cold/cold and jump terminals 12 to 3 (black wire to purple wire) on the temp switch. If that works, you need a new switch. Looks like it is no longer available but I will search around. Why did they replace the water valve when they are working? Most tech's don't have a clue!
Switch is not available from us but is available elsewhere, part number 22002936
Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56  Sounds like a faulty temp switch or temp control board, most likely the switch. Does it matter if the auto temp button is in or out? Set washer to cold/cold and jump terminals 12 to 3 (black wire to purple wire) on the temp switch. If that works, you need a new switch. Looks like it is no longer available but I will search around. Why did they replace the water valve when they are working? Most tech's don't have a clue!
Switch is not available from us but is available elsewhere, part number 22002936
Eric Thanks for the reply! re: auto temp - In fact, that is when I noticed issues starting. I usually use the Auto Temp button (Custom Settings? next to temp control) and then one day I noticed the washer wasn't filling up with that button in use but would function without using auto temp, so I never used that again. But the last time the washer worked, I was using the extra rinse option, that wash went all the way through to finish but was the last load before the current issues appeared. Even with any of the custom buttons engaged (4 options?), the little red light does not light up anymore...
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Rank: Advanced Member
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In that case, looks like a faulty temp control board. I would still verify by doing the test that I suggested. The board is $116. If you don't care about using auto temp control, the board can be eliminated with a little wiring change. Whirlpool 22003906 Control Board - AppliancePartsPros.comEric
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 In that case, looks like a faulty temp control board. I would still verify by doing the test that I suggested. The board is $116. If you don't care about using auto temp control, the board can be eliminated with a little wiring change. Whirlpool 22003906 Control Board - AppliancePartsPros.comEric Thanks Eric! I will jump it when I get home and update thread. Are instructions posted anywhere about wiring change to eliminate auto temp control? I'm assuming it can only be either control board or temp switch; not both?
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 In that case, looks like a faulty temp control board. I would still verify by doing the test that I suggested. The board is $116. If you don't care about using auto temp control, the board can be eliminated with a little wiring change. Whirlpool 22003906 Control Board - AppliancePartsPros.comEric Jumped 12 to 3 with cold/cold selected, nothing, no temp settings worked; with jumper removed, hot/cold worked. Does this mean Temp Control Board?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Appears to be a bad board. To bypass the board, unplug the connector from the board. You can either make two suitable jumpers to jump out pins on the connector or just cut the wires and splice them. You need to jump the purple wire to the blue wire and jump the pink wire to the orange wire.
Eric
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Appears to be a bad board. To bypass the board, unplug the connector from the board. You can either make two suitable jumpers to jump out pins on the connector or just cut the wires and splice them. You need to jump the purple wire to the blue wire and jump the pink wire to the orange wire.
Eric Thanks again Eric! Debating whether or not to rewire or simply change out control board. Wiring looks simple enough to do by splicing but then I would be permanently changing things. I am going to see how to jump w/o splicing, any videos you know of that shows this? Thanks, Rick
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/20/2015(UTC)
Posts: 7
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Appears to be a bad board. To bypass the board, unplug the connector from the board. You can either make two suitable jumpers to jump out pins on the connector or just cut the wires and splice them. You need to jump the purple wire to the blue wire and jump the pink wire to the orange wire.
Eric It pays to read things carefully! :o Just read this again Eric and I will now try the jump method to bypass board. When I read this the first time I completely missed "unplug the connector from the board"... that makes a difference Will give it a go a little later and post results *I assume connector is not plugged back into board*
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Correct, leave connector unplugged from board.
Eric
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