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Whirlpool Quiet Partner ii clean light flashing - have reset, still flashing
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team  Jim, The first thing to check is the water temperature in the tub, at the end of the initial fill cycle. It has to be a minimum 120 dgrs.F. If the water isn't hot enough, the heater and sensor can heat the water, but if the sensor doesn't produce the correct resistance, then the clean light will flash.
The information in the previous posts still apply, you'll need to check for "closed" circuits at the heater and the hi limit thermostat with a meter, and check the wiring.
The attached tech data sheet, will help with the resistance tests, and you can program into the test mode and reset the control eeprom memory. I checked this tech sheet to see if I could find a sequence for the diagnostic cycle. You show to push a heat cycle which I dont have. How would I run the diagnostic? My Whirlpool dishwasher is a DU980QPDB3 and it has an air dry button because it automatically heat dries. Everything lights up, it runs the cycle but the water wont go in. The float isnt stuck, the water is turned on, the element is heating, nothing is flashing. What sequence of buttons can I use to run a diagnostic?
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Originally Posted by: Silkfur I checked this tech sheet to see if I could find a sequence for the diagnostic cycle. You show to push a heat cycle which I dont have. How would I run the diagnostic? My Whirlpool dishwasher is a Part number: DU980QPDB3
and it has an air dry button because it automatically heat dries. Everything lights up, it runs the cycle but the water wont go in. The float isnt stuck, the water is turned on, the element is heating, nothing is flashing. What sequence of buttons can I use to run a diagnostic? Silkfur, The attached tech sheet, will give you the programming sequence for entering the test modes of the control board. But, it sounds more like you may have a failed fill valve Part number: AP3010773
You'll be able to tell when you conduct the diagnostics cycle tests.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Silkfur, The attached tech sheet, will give you the programming sequence for entering the test modes of the control board. But, it sounds more like you may have a failed fill valve Part number: AP3010773
You'll be able to tell when you conduct the diagnostics cycle tests. I tried to run this test, and when I push the high temp, air dry, high temp, air dry, it lights up the first half of all the push buttons then the remainder and then returns to the normal cycle. I can hear it click as if it wants to run but it never does. No water and no sound (other than the clicking) but the lights show its on. If I let it run it does on the keypad go through the normal cycle and heat to dry. But there is never any sound and no water. What do I do? I need to fix this and its going to have to be me that does it, girl and all :)
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Originally Posted by: Silkfur I tried to run this test, and when I push the high temp, air dry, high temp, air dry, it lights up the first half of all the push buttons then the remainder and then returns to the normal cycle. I can hear it click as if it wants to run but it never does. No water and no sound (other than the clicking) but the lights show its on. If I let it run it does on the keypad go through the normal cycle and heat to dry. But there is never any sound and no water.
What do I do? I need to fix this and its going to have to be me that does it, girl and all :) Silkfur, When you program into the test mode properly, the first thing to occur will be the dishwasher filling with water. You will need to use a multi meter, attach the meter leads to the terminals of the fill valve and program the test mode. In a few seconds, your meter should indicate 120 VAC. across the terminals, then you'll need to replace the fill valve. If you have no voltage, then you'll need to check the wires to the valve from the control board. Repair the wire(s) or replace the control board if all's OK.
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Silkfur, When you program into the test mode properly, the first thing to occur will be the dishwasher filling with water. You will need to use a multi meter, attach the meter leads to the terminals of the fill valve and program the test mode. In a few seconds, your meter should indicate 120 VAC. across the terminals, then you'll need to replace the fill valve. If you have no voltage, then you'll need to check the wires to the valve from the control board. Repair the wire(s) or replace the control board if all's OK. As I stated in the beginning, the problem in the first place was that water was not going into the dishwasher. So in the test mode if the first thing to occur is the dishwasher filling up then I wouldnt have a problem with it not filling up in the first place. I'll call a appliance repairman
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Originally Posted by: Silkfur As I stated in the beginning, the problem in the first place was that water was not going into the dishwasher. So in the test mode if the first thing to occur is the dishwasher filling up then I wouldnt have a problem with it not filling up in the first place.
I'll call a appliance repairman Silkfur, You may not need a repairman. The previous post recommended you check voltage to the valve or replace the fill valve. When the repairman get's the dishwasher up and going, let us know what was needed and what was done. Thanks,
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Hello,
My 9 yr Kitchen Aid DW has been stopping in mid cycle with the clean light blinking. For a while this only happened 2x a year, and resetting the control panel by this process ((close the soap dispenser door, close the dishwasher door, and toggle between hitting high temp scrub and energy save dry several times until all the leds light up, press cancel) this would allow a good restart and the DW would run fine for a while. But now toggling between the two buttons and restarting only works about 1 in 10 times. I have been accommodating this by washing, toggle/cancel/restarting wash with no soap to rinse the soap , but I have no dry.
I have placed a right side cup on the top shelf and it will fill up in just a few minutes so I have plenty of water.
The water is coming from the hot water heater. It seems a little colder than the tap but I think that is because it looses a little heat sloshing around in the DW. We did turn up the hot water heater but to me the dw water doesn't seem quite as hot as the tap.
I am about to try this...... "You’d need to uninstall your dishwasher, disconnect power and lay it on it’s back to check the resistance of the heater as well as the resistance of the high limit thermostat to confirm if they were bad or good. You should get tangible reading of between 5 and 30 ohms on the heater if it’s good and less than one ohm on the high limit thermostat. If both of those devices check good, then replace the control board because that’s the one device you cannot test"
And I am going to try this ..... " There are 2 switches that close 2 circuits when you close the door. The one on the right side is not staying closed, thus the heating circuit is shutting down. An easy test is to trade the 2 wires on each switch to the other side. This should eliminate the clean light blinking and cause the dishwasher to just turn off. The newer designs have eliminated this double switch design"
Which should I try first? Or do you have any other ideas?
Thanks
DPForumDog
Granny DP
8-2-2014
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Originally Posted by: DPForumDog Hello,
My 9 yr Kitchen Aid DW has been stopping in mid cycle with the clean light blinking. For a while this only happened 2x a year, and resetting the control panel by this process ((close the soap dispenser door, close the dishwasher door, and toggle between hitting high temp scrub and energy save dry several times until all the leds light up, press cancel) this would allow a good restart and the DW would run fine for a while. But now toggling between the two buttons and restarting only works about 1 in 10 times. I have been accommodating this by washing, toggle/cancel/restarting wash with no soap to rinse the soap , but I have no dry.
I have placed a right side cup on the top shelf and it will fill up in just a few minutes so I have plenty of water.
The water is coming from the hot water heater. It seems a little colder than the tap but I think that is because it looses a little heat sloshing around in the DW. We did turn up the hot water heater but to me the dw water doesn't seem quite as hot as the tap.
I am about to try this...... "You’d need to uninstall your dishwasher, disconnect power and lay it on it’s back to check the resistance of the heater as well as the resistance of the high limit thermostat to confirm if they were bad or good. You should get tangible reading of between 5 and 30 ohms on the heater if it’s good and less than one ohm on the high limit thermostat. If both of those devices check good, then replace the control board because that’s the one device you cannot test"
And I am going to try this ..... " There are 2 switches that close 2 circuits when you close the door. The one on the right side is not staying closed, thus the heating circuit is shutting down. An easy test is to trade the 2 wires on each switch to the other side. This should eliminate the clean light blinking and cause the dishwasher to just turn off. The newer designs have eliminated this double switch design"
Which should I try first? Or do you have any other ideas?
Thanks
DPForumDog
Granny DP
8-2-2014 DPForumDog, Your first check should be to make sure the water temperature in the bottom of the tub is at least 120 dgrs.F. on the first fill of the cycle. You're correct, there is cold water left in the water supply line to the dishwasher, and once the dishwasher has filled and the water starts to circulate, the remaining water in the tub will loose temperature due to the circulation process. What you may want to do is : run the hot water faucet at the kitchen sink until the water is hot (120 to 130 dgrs.) then start the dishwasher. Of course you want to reset the control board first, once the tub is full and starts to circulates then check the water temperature, again. If the water temperature is in range, and the cycle runs completely, and the clean LED doesn't flash or blink. you'll be fine. If the water temperature is in range, and the clean LED blinks, then it's time to check the heater resistance and hi limit thermostat. You can usually find the wiring diagram and tech data sheet attached to the back of the kickplate assembly or attached to the frame work near the fill valve. You can check the heater resistance, and hi limit thermostat at the control board connectors, instead of removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. Just make sure you remove power to the dishwasher before you do anything.
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Hi, I'm new to the Forum. I have a Whirlpool Quiet Partner II as well with the same "clean light blinks 7 times symptom". For one post, Joe M. replied "You need to make sure, the water temperature, in the bottom of the tub, on the first fill of a wash cycle, is at least 120 to 130 dgrs. F. (you should be able to run the hot water faucet at the kitchen sink, and get somewhere in that range, before you start the dishwasher). If this doesn't solve the problem, drop us a line and we can walk you through the test procedures for the heater circuit and components. Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros...shing.html#ixzz3l4IIQRvr Appliance Repair Forum - Free Service from Appliance Parts Pros " I've raised the hot water temperature to ensure that the water is at least 120 to 130 deg F. Note that before I raised it, it was just at 120 [and apparently worked fine at that temp for months]. The problem still happens, though not every time. I'll note that even when the problem doesn't happen, the dishes, particularly the silverware can still be dirty. Further, when the problem does happen, it doesn't happen near the start of the wash. I have cleaned out the filter at the bottom and manually removed gunk (multiple times) but that doesn't seem to change the frequency with which the issue arises. I'm interested in any other thoughts including "...we can walk you through the test procedures for the heater circuit and components." Thanks, Brian
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Brian,
To circuit check the heater circuit located on the bottom of the dishwasher tub. You'll need to remove power to the dishwasher, remove the kickplate and lower access panel so you can access the terminals on the heater and hi limit thermostat.
Label and disconnect the wires attached to the heater element terminals, place the meter leads, across the terminals and you should have a resistance reading of 10 to 35 ohms, if the heater is "good". Reattach the wires to the heater, if all's OK, disconnect the wires from the high limit thermostat, pl​a​ce the meter leads across the thermosta​t​ terminals, you should have a "closed"(infinite resistance) circuit across the terminals at room temperature(below 140 dgrs.).
If all checks are OK, or in range, You will need to check the heater circuit at the control board( you didn't include a specific model number). You'll need to check for the 10 to 35 ohms resistance at the control board connector, to determine if the circuit is "complete" and replace the control board, if that's the case.
You do want to verify the water temperature in the tub, on the first fill. it needs to be a minimum of 120 dgrs. F. in the bottom of the tub, when the motor starts to wash. (the hotter, the better). The control board has a maximum amount of time to increase the water temperature to 140 dgrs.F.) if the control board does not see the circuit, resistance, etc. the "clean" light will flash 7 times.
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Whirlpool Quiet Partner ii clean light flashing - have reset, still flashing
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