Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/22/2008(UTC)
Posts: 13
|
Tried a search and didn't find anything relevant. I am replacing the heater assembly (Part Number: AP2802366 made by BOSCH) on this Bosch dishwasher, as the old one is no longer heating the water. Is anyone aware of any instructions on how to change out this part?
Thanks, Tim
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 191
|
Hello, I've never had to install a heater, but from what I understand it's not an easy job. Some people I've talked to have taken the screws out from the right front and right rear corners and sseparated the tank far enough to get their hands in there, while others have completely removed the base (as shown in the attachment). KC
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/22/2008(UTC)
Posts: 13
|
Your advice and information was great. You were right, it was quite a task. But with the information you provided I was able to get to the heater assembly and change the part. (added complication was figuring out after taking the whole thing apart that the new part I was sent had a crack in the casing. Luckily I was able to swap all of the electrical components over to the old plastic casing and create a good heating assembly).
Only problem is, the water is still not heating. When I ran the diagnostic I got an error code 2 - heating fault. The manual says it could be a "heater, high limit or flow switch" problem. I only understand the heater part of that statement, so I switched the heater.
Any idea what is meant by high limit or flow switch problem? Or could it be something in the control panel?
Thanks again, Tim
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 191
|
Well, if the heater wasn't the problem it's probably in the relay board. The way you check the board is, with the door panel removed, put it back into the test mode and when the circulation pump starts to run you should find 120vac between the only solid red wire coming off the bottom of the board and chassis ground. (I usually stick the other lead into the hole you'll find on the hinge.) If you never see 120v on that wire it's the board.
Now, here's the silver lining. It's sounds like you're pretty handy, so if you would like to determine what's wrong with the board you can take the entire board housing out from behind the fascia panel, remove the circuit board and check for a burnt spot dead center on the back on the circuit board. So, if the board is the problem and you find this "cold solder joint" you can just put a dab of solder on it and get your unit working again.
And if you have no voltage and don't see that cold solder joint you'll need to replace the board.
Good luck and happy holidays.
KC
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/22/2008(UTC)
Posts: 13
|
Yessss. No current from the red wire, looked behind the panel and just like you said, there was a burned out connection in the center. One drop of solder, and we are in business. Ran the diagnostic, no issues. Nice and hot for the first time in forever.
Thank you for your help. Saved me a lot of money and always more satisfying to fix things oneself.
Have a great holiday season.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 191
|
Cool - Good Job. It's always a pleasure to help.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/1/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
I have similar problems and would like to run the Test programm on my Dishwasher. Do i have to ru the test program with Water Connected or will it test the component in a Dry run mode?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 191
|
The unit has to be filled with water before the unit will circulate and heat the water. You can fill the unit by hand if you like. A proper water level is when the water is just touching the round, plastic filter handle. If your drain is not hooked up, be aware that the unit will run the drain for about 45 seconds during the first part of the test. This being the case, you should start the test and when the drain stops, open the door, add the water and let it continue the test. Then, when the test is finished, it will drain again.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/2/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
We are having a challenge getting our Bosch dishwasher fixed. We have a heater assembly part, but cannot figure out how to get to any of the insides to do the replacement.
Your PDF is helpful, but it looks like we could also use pages 3,4,5 to figure out how to remove the door. Can you help?
Our actual product number is SHU5315UC / U12.
Will greatly appreciate any help you can provide. We live in the mountains and none of the Bosch authorized servicers will come here.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 191
|
Hello,
The door doesn't have to be removed in order to get to the heater, but if you would like to know it's as simple as removing the bottom three screws from each side of the inner door. These are the T-20 screws you see when you open the door and look at the edges of the stainless inner door panel.
KC
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
