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Cadiblk  
#131 Posted : Sunday, June 3, 2012 6:40:43 PM(UTC)
Cadiblk

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Thanks for the reply. I went to two auto parts stores and three different home improvement stores and was unable to locate any washers / shims that would fit over the axle. While I was cussing them all out I remembered that my dad has a drill press. I purchased some sheet metal and made my own washer / shim.

I took the tub out, removed the clutch and that big ol nut and inserted the newly made washer / shim. As I was tightening the nut against the shims I felt a slight pop which I believe was the shaft pressing onto the new tub seal. I put the machine back together and it works perfectly!

I have run a load and it is absolutely silent. In the max extract spin mode I can only hear the drain pump running!! I believe that it is running better than when it was new!

I can't thank you enough for the help. Although I have several cuts from the stainless steal tub edge, busted knuckles, etc. I now have a machine that again I believe is better than new. I would highly recommend spending the few extra bucks on the Japanese bearing to any future readers.

Once I get all the blood, grease, and tears washed off I am going to post a list of the many mistakes that I made. Hopefully the forum folks won't mind.

FYI, I ran the cycle meter and when I pressed signal - the result was 54, signal + was 26. Am I correct to understand this as 5,426 cycles? I ran the speed test and it ramped promptly up to 85 with the dot in the corner without a problem.

Greg
dh1200s  
#132 Posted : Sunday, June 3, 2012 8:00:33 PM(UTC)
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Good deal Greg very nice job and some ingenuity with the shims. If you know the gauge of the tin you used and number of shims I’m sure down the road other FAV6800A/FAV9800A owners may want to save the machine that has the Lower Tub bearing with the split bearing assembly. For the life of me I don’t know what Maytag engineering was thinking when they did away with the Upper Bearing ring.

Some owners also punch out and replace the bearings in the Spinner Support but if you are running OK then wash up that backed up pile. Give it a good work out the test of time is always the next milestone.
You are now an expert on the rebuild of the Outer Tub and please chime in to help other owners.

“”FYI, I ran the cycle meter and when I pressed signal - the result was 54, signal + was 26. Am I correct to understand this as 5,426 cycles?””

That sounds correct from the SM page 14; Signal +: 10’s and 1’s digits
Signal -: 100’s and 1000’s digits Colors/Jeans: 10-thousands & 100-thousand digits


You will have other issues down the road i.e. ND error code for No Drain, and the PITA Left Lid Lock error codes FL and OP. You are armed with knowledge and the right attitude to do any repair on the machine. I would keep an eye out for parted out machines and pick up spare parts for pennies on the dollar.

I also recommend surge suppression/protection on the washer 120VAC outlet to protect that Control Board and Motor Control board from any line transients/hiccups.

“”I would highly recommend spending the few extra bucks on the Japanese bearing to any future readers.””

If you can post the P/N of the bearings used.


Good luck………Dick
Cadiblk  
#133 Posted : Sunday, June 3, 2012 9:15:11 PM(UTC)
Cadiblk

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Sure. I made two shims with 7 gauge sheet metal. It results in just under the 3/8" that the other poster wrote about, but it did the job.

The 6207 bearing has the number NSK 6207VVC3E. The 6002 bearing is NACHI 6002-2NSE.
I bought the INA SCE910 bearing from Amazon.

Thanks yet again for the help. It is appreciated.
Fenris  
#134 Posted : Tuesday, June 26, 2012 12:29:58 PM(UTC)
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I just finished a rebuild of my 17 series 6800A using these the instructions on these forums. It worked out really well, now my washer spins properly again. I do have a few issues and tips for people who want to do this.
1. The lower tub bearing is a one way bearing on later model tubs. It is approximately 5mm thicker than the replacement 6207-2RS bearings. As a shim I used a single metric M36 black oxide coated washer that I ordered from McMaster-Carr. They come five to a pack, but I only used one. I initially tried two, but it was too thick.

dh1200s  
#135 Posted : Wednesday, June 27, 2012 6:20:31 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Originally Posted by: Fenris Go to Quoted Post
I just finished a rebuild of my 17 series 6800A using these the instructions on these forums. It worked out really well, now my washer spins properly again. I do have a few issues and tips for people who want to do this.
1. The lower tub bearing is a one way bearing on later model tubs. It is approximately 5mm thicker than the replacement 6207-2RS bearings. As a shim I used a single metric M36 black oxide coated washer that I ordered from McMaster-Carr. They come five to a pack, but I only used one. I initially tried two, but it was too thick.



Fenris,

Thank you for the feedback on the shim required of FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines that require replacement of the combined ball and One-Way bearing assembly. I assume you had no problem using the Upper Bearing ring above the clutch pulley on reassembly? Some owners I have talked to did not have the notches in the bottom of the Outer Tub to receive that Upper One-Way bearing ring...........Dick
Fenris  
#136 Posted : Wednesday, June 27, 2012 3:14:58 PM(UTC)
Fenris

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Originally Posted by: dh1200s Go to Quoted Post
Fenris,

Thank you for the feedback on the shim required of FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines that require replacement of the combined ball and One-Way bearing assembly. I assume you had no problem using the Upper Bearing ring above the clutch pulley on reassembly? Some owners I have talked to did not have the notches in the bottom of the Outer Tub to receive that Upper One-Way bearing ring...........Dick


No problem at all, I don't think. Everything re-assembled fine. The original bearing split when removing it, requiring a bigger bearing removal tool for the remaining piece.

I am trying to post a longer post here, but I keep getting an error...

-Jim
dh1200s  
#137 Posted : Wednesday, June 27, 2012 8:24:11 PM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Hey Jim,

I believe other users have reported issues of trying to submit longer post. I’m not sure what that issue could be. Thank you for whatever comments you can add to the Lower Outer Tub bearing replacement process for machines that use that combined (split bearing assembly) Lower Outer Tub bearing over the more plain vanilla single ball bearing i.e. 6207-2RS type…………Dick
Fenris  
#138 Posted : Monday, July 2, 2012 11:25:41 AM(UTC)
Fenris

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Dick, until I find a solution for posting longer posts, I'll just start with a question/issue. After doing the bearing replacement, the washer gets unbalanced in a heartbeat. It's constantly banging around, squeaking, and throwing "dc" errors. I open it and the laundry is all piled on one side of the tub. Maybe the lower one-way tub bearing was there to prevent this? I've been thinking of strapping bungee cords around the tub and securing them in the corners to cut down on the tub movement, it's gotten so bad. Maybe I damaged the front struts on removal? They don't seem damaged, but how much play should they have, and how easily should the tub move around?

Jim
dh1200s  
#139 Posted : Monday, July 2, 2012 5:25:35 PM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Jim is this happening in wash cycle and spin cycle is OK? “”After doing the bearing replacement, the washer gets unbalanced in a heartbeat. It's constantly banging around, squeaking, and throwing "dc" errors.””

“”Maybe the lower one-way tub bearing was there to prevent this?”” That is correct if the Lower Outer Tub bearing was the Split bearing assembly. From your teardown/rebuild post it was.

If that is correct then I assume the washer is going off balance in wash cycle. If you release the washer top from the base slightly and observe if the wash basket is rotating CW in wash cycle and let me know.

If this is happening then you need to use the Upper One-Way bearing ring that came with your new Clutch Pulley assembly………I’m assuming you replaced the Clutch Pulley assembly with the rebuild. I mentioned that in a previous post 06-27-2012 10:20 AM.

In older series FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines that Upper One-Way bearing ring prevents the wash basket from rotating CW in wash cycle….it locks up in the CW direction.

In later series FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines the funicality was moved to and integrated into the Lower Outer Tub bearing design. I have no idea what Maytag was thinking with that crazy move…..certainly reliability was not given any consideration.

""I've been thinking of strapping bungee cords around the tub and securing them in the corners to cut down on the tub movement, it's gotten so bad. Maybe I damaged the front struts on removal? They don't seem damaged, but how much play should they have, and how easily should the tub move around?"" I describe how to test the struts in this post http://forum.appliancepartspros...tune-load-unbalance.html



Waiting on your feedback……..Dick
Cadiblk  
#140 Posted : Monday, July 2, 2012 7:23:32 PM(UTC)
Cadiblk

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Did you replace the clutch? That what the part that was causing the same issue with my machine.
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