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FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement
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Need answers to these questions;
Jim is this happening in wash cycle and spin cycle is OK?
“”After doing the bearing replacement, the washer gets unbalanced in a heartbeat. It's constantly banging around, squeaking, and throwing "dc" errors.””
""the washer gets unbalanced in a heartbeat.""" Is the machine going off balance in wash cycle as soon as you press the start button of the selected wash cycle or only in spin cycle of the wash cycle or a Spin Only cycle?
Need to know that.....if its happening while in wash cycle it may be caused by not using the Upper One-Way bearing ring after the rebuild.
If the issue is only happening in spin cycle of the wash cycle or a Spin Only cycle then you need to re-lube the One-Way bearing in the new Clutch Pulley you purchased.
Clean with WD-40 and I use Slick 50 One Lube to lubricate the One-Way bearings for both the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way bearing and if used the Upper One-Way Bearing ring mounted above the Clutch Pulley. I would never recommend using any other type of bearing grease. If you Google how a One-Way bearing works you may agree with me. These bearings are un-sealed.
It's really important to clean and re-lube the new Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way bearing and the Upper One-Way bearing ring you had to use because your series machine moved the Upper One-Way bearing function to the be part of the Lower Outer Tub bearing (split bearing) assembly..........Dick
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 460
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Originally Posted by: Cadiblk  Did you replace the clutch? That what the part that was causing the same issue with my machine. Hope Jim will hold off on the bungee cord idea and we look at the root cause which I agree could be the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way bearing if this is happening in Spin Cycle of the Wash Cycle or a Spin Only Cycle. When the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way bearing starts to slip and not lock up tight with Clutch Pulley CCW rotation (the spin direction) you get agitator shaft rotation as the wash basket begins to spin up which will cause tumbler rotation as the wash basket begins to spin up. Bad situation...the machine rotates the wash load as you begin to spin up and those Wild Tub Swings followed with dc and or Uc unballance errors. At least we know his TDS sensor is working as designed or the machine would shake itself apart. Just need to do a bit more troubleshooting of the issue. Just a heads up, I replaced the Clutch Pulley in a series 17 machine about 18 months ago. At that time I cleaned/relubed the One-Way bearing in the new Clutch Pulley. I believe about 3 months ago I started throwing unbalance errors. I droped out the Clutch Pulley out of the machine gave the One-Way bearing a WD-40 rinse then lint free cloth wipe down then a refresh of Slick 50 One Lube.....no issues since then with dc/UC unballance errors. These bearings as you know are not sealed and I feel need perodic maintenance until you reach the trigger point to junk the machine. I have some parted out/used replacemt parts like Console, Motor Control, Motor that can be picked up at low cost these are the big ticket items. Catch the Tub Seal/Tranny O-ring leak in time and you can extend the service life of the Outer Tub bearings and maybe if used that PITA Maytag Lower split bearing.......I'm sure the wife at some point will want new equipment......I have enough spare parts and machines to put that off for a very, very long time........Dick
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Originally Posted by: dh1200s
If this is happening then you need to use the Upper One-Way bearing ring that came with your new Clutch Pulley assembly………I’m assuming you replaced the Clutch Pulley assembly with the rebuild. I mentioned that in a previous post 06-27-2012 10:20 AM.
Waiting on your feedback……..Dick Dick, I couldn't find a new clutch assembly in stock for less than $150 and my existing clutch was OK except for the bearing. I lubed the bearing and it seemed to improve, but I was hesitant to re-use it since there was some surface rust and it's a traditional weak spot. So I ordered a new INA HF3520 bearing online, went to a local auto shop and had them press the old one out and the new one in. Total cost was about $25, much better than the $150 everyone wants. The bearing has a rounded end and a flat end, so it's fairly easy to keep it straight which end was which. I'm pretty sure the tumblers are agitating the load - it usually ends up in some sort of Gordian Knot on the side of the tub, even after pulling it apart. It happens on both the wash and spin cycles, but the dC errors usually only happen at the 12-13 minute mark in the spin cycle. It may be the type of clothes, I've noticed differences based on what was being washed - long sleeve stuff tends to knot up easily, smaller stuff never gives an error
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/7/2009(UTC)
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“”So I ordered a new INA HF3520 bearing online, went to a local auto shop and had them press the old one out and the new one in.”” I hear ya on the $150 cost. When I ordered out one just to have and figure out how the One-Way bearing worked (Lock Up) I paid around $56 delivered to the house.
I picked up a HF3520 also and never got around to try pressing it in the Clutch Pulley or the Upper Bearing Ring. Did the shop speak to any issues pressing in that bearing?
The HF 3520 One-Way bearing lock up is install sensitive. By that I mean flip it 180 deg on install and it now locks up in the opposite direction.
Lift your washer lid and tell me if you can rotate the wash basket by hand in the CW direction. It should not the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way bearing should lock up and not allow CW rotation of the wash basket. The wash basket should only rotate CCW the spin direction by hand force and that force is very, very light.
If you are near the Honey Brook PA. area I would run a Clutch Pulley over to ya to nail down the issue which I believe is a One-Way bearing issue mounted in the Clutch Pulley.
Your Upper Bearing ring install went OK....no issues correct?
Have a happy 4th!..............Dick
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/2/2012(UTC)
Posts: 14
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Originally Posted by: dh1200s “”So I ordered a new INA HF3520 bearing online, went to a local auto shop and had them press the old one out and the new one in.”” I hear ya on the $150 cost. When I ordered out one just to have and figure out how the One-Way bearing worked (Lock Up) I paid around $56 delivered to the house.
I picked up a HF3520 also and never got around to try pressing it in the Clutch Pulley or the Upper Bearing Ring. Did the shop speak to any issues pressing in that bearing?
The HF 3520 One-Way bearing lock up is install sensitive. By that I mean flip it 180 deg on install and it now locks up in the opposite direction.
Lift your washer lid and tell me if you can rotate the wash basket by hand in the CW direction. It should not the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way bearing should lock up and not allow CW rotation of the wash basket. The wash basket should only rotate CCW the spin direction by hand force and that force is very, very light.
If you are near the Honey Brook PA. area I would run a Clutch Pulley over to ya to nail down the issue which I believe is a One-Way bearing issue mounted in the Clutch Pulley.
Your Upper Bearing ring install went OK....no issues correct?
Have a happy 4th!..............Dick The bearing presses out and in easily with a standard 5 ton press, the hardest part is finding the right piece to hold the bearing seat. It has a rounded side and a flat one, so it's easy to keep track of which is which. It took longer to find an appropriate sized socket to use than to press the old bearing out and the new one in.
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Rank: Member
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I can rotate the basket in both directions easily. Something may have come loose I guess - maybe the tabs on the coupler are not locking up correctly? I know the one-way bearing was right when I replaced it and it was locking up on the coupler.
The upper bearing seemed to install fine, although I had to use more force than I would have liked. It's not whisper quiet, but it is a vast improvement.
My wife just did a load of laundry and put her long sleeve pants and clothes in mesh laundry bags, and it didn't throw any errors. That may be the solution, although now I'm worried that it doesn't lock up in the CW direction.
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Jim thank you for the info on pressing in the HF3520 bearing.
The wash basket should never rotate CW it's the Upper Bearing ring that locks up in the CW direction to keep the wash tub from rotating CW with Clutch Pulley CW rotation.
When you removed that Lower Outer Tub bearing .....the combined bearing of one half ball bearing and the other half One-Way bearing you needed to use the Upper Bearing ring as earlier FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines used. I feel if the Upper One-Way bearing was pressed in wrong you would lock up the the bearing and maybe stall the Motor or possible belt screach. I'm scratching my head right now.....Dick
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Dick, I spun the pulley/motor by hand with the front open. In the counter clockwise direction (as seen from above) it rotates the tumblers for about three rotations and then locks up and spins the tub CCW. In the clockwise direction it just rotates the tumblers. I assume this is correct? I'll have to watch it during actual operation to make sure it doesn't slip under load. The problem may be my wife's wash - putting her long sleeve clothes in mesh bags prevented the dreaded dC, although there's still some banging.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/2/2012(UTC)
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Dick, if I prevent the motor from spinning, the tub spins freely in the CCW direction, but locks after a turn or so in the CW direction. I assume this means it's operating correctly?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 460
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Yep sounds good. When a spin cycle starts.....CCW clutch pulley rotation.....that large wrap spring in the clutch pulley is wound to tension and the tumbles will rotate a turn or so. Once under tension the wash basket will begin to rotate CCW/spin.
I agree the laundry load in the mesh bag would cause the load unbalance. A slipping Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing will really show up with a very light load. The machine has been taged by owners and repair folks that the machine dosen't like light loads......thats just not so......it's the slipping/fail to lock up One-Way bearing in the Clutch pulley that allows some tumbler movement at the start of spin cycle which is the root cause. Most folks that have this issue with no signs of a Tub Seal leak can clean/relube the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing and be back in business in 30 minutes.
Run it as normal and see if the off balance issue returns.
I still feel something is wrong related to the Upper Bearing ring allowing you to rotate the wash basket CW. Peer into a wash load running and see if the wash basket is rotating slowly CW. Just release the washer top from the base and take a peek once the wash cycle starts. Wait for the water fill cycle to stop before you release the top from the base so you don't spray water around.
Good luck I'll be around if I can help.........Dick
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FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement
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