Thanks for the reply. I went to two auto parts stores and three different home improvement stores and was unable to locate any washers / shims that would fit over the axle. While I was cussing them all out I remembered that my dad has a drill press. I purchased some sheet metal and made my own washer / shim.

I took the tub out, removed the clutch and that big ol nut and inserted the newly made washer / shim. As I was tightening the nut against the shims I felt a slight pop which I believe was the shaft pressing onto the new tub seal. I put the machine back together and it works perfectly!

I have run a load and it is absolutely silent. In the max extract spin mode I can only hear the drain pump running!! I believe that it is running better than when it was new!

I can't thank you enough for the help. Although I have several cuts from the stainless steal tub edge, busted knuckles, etc. I now have a machine that again I believe is better than new. I would highly recommend spending the few extra bucks on the Japanese bearing to any future readers.

Once I get all the blood, grease, and tears washed off I am going to post a list of the many mistakes that I made. Hopefully the forum folks won't mind.

FYI, I ran the cycle meter and when I pressed signal - the result was 54, signal + was 26. Am I correct to understand this as 5,426 cycles? I ran the speed test and it ramped promptly up to 85 with the dot in the corner without a problem.

Greg

Sure. I made two shims with 7 gauge sheet metal. It results in just under the 3/8" that the other poster wrote about, but it did the job.

The 6207 bearing has the number NSK 6207VVC3E. The 6002 bearing is NACHI 6002-2NSE.
I bought the INA SCE910 bearing from Amazon.

Thanks yet again for the help. It is appreciated.

Fenris,

Thank you for the feedback on the shim required of FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines that require replacement of the combined ball and One-Way bearing assembly. I assume you had no problem using the Upper Bearing ring above the clutch pulley on reassembly? Some owners I have talked to did not have the notches in the bottom of the Outer Tub to receive that Upper One-Way bearing ring...........Dick

Jim is this happening in wash cycle and spin cycle is OK? “”After doing the bearing replacement, the washer gets unbalanced in a heartbeat. It's constantly banging around, squeaking, and throwing "dc" errors.””

“”Maybe the lower one-way tub bearing was there to prevent this?”” That is correct if the Lower Outer Tub bearing was the Split bearing assembly. From your teardown/rebuild post it was.

If that is correct then I assume the washer is going off balance in wash cycle. If you release the washer top from the base slightly and observe if the wash basket is rotating CW in wash cycle and let me know.

If this is happening then you need to use the Upper One-Way bearing ring that came with your new Clutch Pulley assembly………I’m assuming you replaced the Clutch Pulley assembly with the rebuild. I mentioned that in a previous post 06-27-2012 10:20 AM.

In older series FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines that Upper One-Way bearing ring prevents the wash basket from rotating CW in wash cycle….it locks up in the CW direction.

In later series FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines the funicality was moved to and integrated into the Lower Outer Tub bearing design. I have no idea what Maytag was thinking with that crazy move…..certainly reliability was not given any consideration.




Waiting on your feedback……..Dick