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My washer quit. I went online, somewhere, and found that if I do a continuity check on it I can determine if it is the timer or not. I checked the incoming lead to the timer and was open, I checked the timer incoming terminal and got resistance. I don't think I was supposed to get resistance if the timer was still good. I then ordered a timer from PartsPros, put it in, and the washer ran for a few seconds, partially filling with water, and quit. Then all is dead again. No circuits blown. Can I check anything else? Could I have received a bad timer? Can I return the timer for credit under my situation? How can you help? My email again is rhanne@bellsouth.net Thanks ahead of time. Bob Hanne
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
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Bob
YOu can return the timer for a full refund. If you will explain in more detail about when the washer quit initially and what it will or will not do we may be able to suggest something.
For example, does the timer continue to move, will the machine drain, will it spin if you manually move the timer, does this problem happen in all cycles etc.
Also use a meter to see if power is getting to the valve assembly when the water is supposed to be coming in.
All of this will help us diagnose the problem.
thanks
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: sidfink43  Bob
YOu can return the timer for a full refund. If you will explain in more detail about when the washer quit initially and what it will or will not do we may be able to suggest something.
For example, does the timer continue to move, will the machine drain, will it spin if you manually move the timer, does this problem happen in all cycles etc.
Also use a meter to see if power is getting to the valve assembly when the water is supposed to be coming in.
All of this will help us diagnose the problem.
thanks Thank you very much for replying. I will try to answer your questions here. We had problems with the washer stopping 8-10 times over a period of a few months. The water would fill and at that point it seemed to quit, because there was always water in the tub when it quit. We would push and pull the knob and the wash cycle would then continue to completion. The last time it stopped after the fill cycle, we could not get it to go again anywhere we put the knob. The timer did not continue to run. As far as the power to the water valve, I might not have time to get to that. It's pretty late already tonight and we are going out of town tomorrow through next Tuesday. I may not get to that until we get back, so don't forget about me. But, if water was always in the tub when it stopped, I would expect the water valve to be OK. Right? Wouldn't the problem be in whatever controls the spin cycle (i.e. ?) which would then kill everyting after that!? I will set the timer to the beginning of a cycle and check for power to the valve and let you know what I get. I guess you are trying to see where the power quits indicating where the problem is. Troubleshooting 101. If you have any other questions, let me know and I will get back to you just as soon as I can. Thanks very much for your help. Bob
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Thanks for the information. I think your initial instincts were correct and this does sound like a timer issue. It is posssible but unlikely you received a bad timer, particularly one that had the same problems as the one you are replacing. It also seems like your problem is definitely electrical. You need to check all of the wiring going into the timer, you may have a break or bad connection somewhere. Make sure all the connections to the timer are good and that there is no problem with connector to the timer. Look for loose, burnt or discolored wire where it goes to the connector. The other part that could be the problem is the the motor switch. Part number: AP3081302
Again this is unlikely but given your situation I would check it for a good connecton, and check the wire where it goes into the connector for loose, burnt or discolored wire. You change it out and see if that fixes things. Even more unlikely is the water level switch, so if nothing else fixes it you can try replacing that. Wish I could be more specific, but intermittent electrical problems are difficult to diagnose even when one is present at the machine.
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