Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDE6200AYW DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is a manual
16023110 Maytag Sloped Front Dryer Repair Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.comYou have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.
The wiring diagram for your unit is on page 10-25.
First I would check the power to the unit.
L1 to Neutral is the side of the line that runs the motor.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
Next I would check the thermal fuses.
Unplug the machine and the wire/s at one side of the fuse. Then measure it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
If the blower fuse (Item 10 in Section 6) is blown then the most likely cause is the vent system. Check/clean it, also be sure that the louvers outside the house open fully.
If the heater fuse (Item 11 in Section 5) is blown get back to us as there are a number of things that should be checked before replacing.
If the fuses are OK then I would check the start switch and the door switch.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
