Dick,

I think I see where I missed a step. How do I remove the spinner bearings in step 6 pg 45? That's why the inner tub does not come out..

Good deal Dino,

FAV6800A/s and FAV9800A's that use the Upper bearing ring makes for a easier Outer Tub rebuild.

Your on your way. I have other post here on this site if you ever have trouble with the Left Hand Lid Lock such as OP, OD, FL error codes and issues with the pressure switch with ND error code. Just type dh1200s in the search box or shout out in the forum.

The Drive Motor, Motor Controller and Tranny seem to be well designed for this TL. I recommend any owner that lives out in the country as me or any area with lighting strike prone place Surge Protection on the Washer Outlet as with protection for any high value micro processor controled items in the home.

Good Luck..........Dick

I have very similar symptoms to the posts at the beginning of this thread but before I dive head first into a fill Outer Tub bearing replacement, I want to check with the Senior Members to verify I am on the right track.

Our Neptune TL washer stopped completing the full cycle a few days ago. It appears to get stuck trying to start the spin cycle. It spins up and stops... spins up and stops... over and over again.

Over the past several months, my wife has noticed the washer getting louder. We had a leak from under the machine last week but I believe it was due the fabric softener dispense holes being clogged. I cleaned them and the leak went away. When I removed the front panel, I didn't see any signs of rust at the bottom of the machine. It was surprisingly clean and corrosion free.

I have read several other posts regarding similar issues. I did download the Service Manual and ran several diagnostic tests per recommendations in the postings. It gives no diagnostic codes and the diagnostic code memory is empty. Here's a summary of what I have done so far:

[LIST=1]

Quick Spin Test: This test never completes. The machine will spin up to 48 RPM and shut-down. It will do this repeatedly and never gives up. I have to manually stop the test.

Service Cycle Test: This test runs fine until it gets to the spin cycle at the end of the test where it begins to act just like the Quick Spin Test.

The Unbalanced Load Sensor diagnostic test passes the troubleshooting procedure from the Service Manual.

The Clutch Pulley spins freely in both directions for multiple turns. If I turn it CCW enough, 7-8 manual turns, it will stop. I have not removed the Clutch Pulley assembly as of yet.

The inner tub will not freely turn in either CW or CCW direction. It is locked up tight.[/LIST]Based on what I have read, I think that I am in for a full Outer Tub bearing replacement. Do you agree?

Is there anything else I should check first?

Does the fact that my Clutch Pully moves freely in both directions mean that it is working?

My machine has an 11 series serial number.

Your help is much appreciated.
Rob

Dick,

I realized that my post earlier didn't seem consistent. The fact that the Quick Spin Test would "spin up to 48 RPM" and the fact that "The inner tub will not freely turn in either CW or CCW direction. It is locked up tight." didn't seem to jive. I watched the Quick Spin Test this morning with the top cover open. What I saw was that the tumblers start-up and reach 48 RPM. Then the machine tries to spin in the CCW direction and immediately stops. This seems consistent with the Quick Service Cycle test that passes right through step 2 when the tumblers are activated. I believe the 48 RPM is the correct tumbler speed as noted in the service manual Quick Service Cycle step 2. The tumbler action is quite loud so I wonder if there is something in the transmission going out as well.

The short answer to your question is that the wash basket does not spin manually. It has maybe a inch of free travel and then stops solid. It's locked up so tight that I actually move the whole machine if I try to spin it hard enough.

I'll drop the Clutch Pulley tonight and let you know what I find.

I'd like to get a jump on ordering parts so I can get this fixed over the holiday weekend. Do you think it is safe to order the parts below?

Tub seal p/n 25001090
Tub ring Tranny O-Ring p/n 25001105.
Qty 2 p/n 6207-2RS Outer Tub bearing.
Qty 1 p/n 6002-2RS Upper Spinner Support agitator shaft bearing.
Qty 1 p/n SCE-910 Lower Shell/Caged Spinner Support agitator shaft bearing.

Thanks for your help. It is much appreciated.
Rob

Dick,

You were half right. :D I dropped the Clutch Pulley and found both the upper and lower bearings rusted solid. The clutch spring itself is intact and seems to be in decent shape. Pictures attached.

I also tried to take some pictures of what I could see of the outer tub bearings. That is the last photo in the list.

Now that the Clutch Pulley is removed, the wash tub moves freely in both directions with just my pinky finger as you described. The machine is on it's back when I am doing this and there seems to be a lot of water sloshing around in the outer tub even though I pumped everything I could out before I set the machine on it's back. Is this normal?

I found the Clutch Pulley that you mentioned on-line and I ordered it but there's obviously a leak somewhere that needs to be repaired. Should I replace the tub seal and tyranny o-ring? How do I inspect the outer tub and transmission pieces to see if they can be cleaned up or if they need to be replaced?

I must say, that this project has been very easy and straight forward so far thanks to your prolific posts! They are very helpful. Once again, thanks for your help.

Rob