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dr057  
#81 Posted : Monday, August 8, 2011 10:03:11 AM(UTC)
dr057

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Dick,

I think I see where I missed a step. How do I remove the spinner bearings in step 6 pg 45? That's why the inner tub does not come out..
dr057  
#82 Posted : Monday, August 8, 2011 10:04:32 AM(UTC)
dr057

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Sorry, I meant to say tumbler bearings..
dh1200s  
#83 Posted : Monday, August 8, 2011 10:15:31 AM(UTC)
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Good deal Dino,

FAV6800A/s and FAV9800A's that use the Upper bearing ring makes for a easier Outer Tub rebuild.

Your on your way. I have other post here on this site if you ever have trouble with the Left Hand Lid Lock such as OP, OD, FL error codes and issues with the pressure switch with ND error code. Just type dh1200s in the search box or shout out in the forum.

The Drive Motor, Motor Controller and Tranny seem to be well designed for this TL. I recommend any owner that lives out in the country as me or any area with lighting strike prone place Surge Protection on the Washer Outlet as with protection for any high value micro processor controled items in the home.

Good Luck..........Dick
dh1200s  
#84 Posted : Monday, August 8, 2011 10:24:43 AM(UTC)
dh1200s

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""Sorry, I meant to say tumbler bearings..""

Yea it's been so long since I did this. See page 39 of the SM

Tumbler Bearing Removal
1. Disconnect power supply to unit.
2. Lift lid.
3. Remove Tumbler.
4. Remove Torx&#8482; screws 3 each side.


I believe either #15 or #20 Torx
robksu  
#85 Posted : Monday, November 21, 2011 7:54:16 PM(UTC)
robksu

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I have very similar symptoms to the posts at the beginning of this thread but before I dive head first into a fill Outer Tub bearing replacement, I want to check with the Senior Members to verify I am on the right track.

Our Neptune TL washer stopped completing the full cycle a few days ago. It appears to get stuck trying to start the spin cycle. It spins up and stops... spins up and stops... over and over again.

Over the past several months, my wife has noticed the washer getting louder. We had a leak from under the machine last week but I believe it was due the fabric softener dispense holes being clogged. I cleaned them and the leak went away. When I removed the front panel, I didn't see any signs of rust at the bottom of the machine. It was surprisingly clean and corrosion free.

I have read several other posts regarding similar issues. I did download the Service Manual and ran several diagnostic tests per recommendations in the postings. It gives no diagnostic codes and the diagnostic code memory is empty. Here's a summary of what I have done so far:

[LIST=1]
  • Quick Spin Test: This test never completes. The machine will spin up to 48 RPM and shut-down. It will do this repeatedly and never gives up. I have to manually stop the test.
  • Service Cycle Test: This test runs fine until it gets to the spin cycle at the end of the test where it begins to act just like the Quick Spin Test.
  • The Unbalanced Load Sensor diagnostic test passes the troubleshooting procedure from the Service Manual.
  • The Clutch Pulley spins freely in both directions for multiple turns. If I turn it CCW enough, 7-8 manual turns, it will stop. I have not removed the Clutch Pulley assembly as of yet.
  • The inner tub will not freely turn in either CW or CCW direction. It is locked up tight.[/LIST]Based on what I have read, I think that I am in for a full Outer Tub bearing replacement. Do you agree?

    Is there anything else I should check first?

    Does the fact that my Clutch Pully moves freely in both directions mean that it is working?

    My machine has an 11 series serial number.

    Your help is much appreciated.
    Rob
  • dh1200s  
    #86 Posted : Monday, November 21, 2011 10:56:41 PM(UTC)
    dh1200s

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    Rob,
    Open the washer lid and see how much resistance there is to rotate the wash basket CCW the Spin Direction. You should be able to rotate CCW with your pinky finger. If it rotates CCW spin the wash basket as fast as you can by hand CCW the release and see if the wash basket will spin down several rotations with a gentle coast down to a stop.

    I would drop the Clutch Pulley out and see what you have. The Tub seals in these as like other machine have reached end of life and I think you will find the clutch pulley has had wash water seep down and contaminate the One-Way clutch bearings used in the Clutch Pulley and I believe your Series 11 will use the upper bearing ring with a One-Way bearing This One-Way bearing ring is similar to the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way bearing ring just pressed into the upper bearing ring to allow the Spinner Support shaft to rotate CCW the Spin direction. I have a feeling that bearing (Upper Bearing ring) is dragging not allowing the washer to spin up to 850RPM.

    I feel the Maytag design did not see/recognize this failure scenario as a possibility and thus no firmware control to halt the machine and issue an error code for increased resistance to spin up the wash basket.

    That’s my WAG I have never experienced the issue and could be out in left field. I’m an owner like you and my experience is limited. Maybe an RT will jump in with some thoughts.

    Bottom line I would start by removing the Clutch Pulley and Upper Bearing ring and inspect.

    Follow this post FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement across to at least get the Clutch Pulley and Upper Bearing ring (if used) out for inspection.

    Good luck Rob I'll try to help if I can………Dick
    robksu  
    #87 Posted : Tuesday, November 22, 2011 6:58:35 AM(UTC)
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    Dick,

    I realized that my post earlier didn't seem consistent. The fact that the Quick Spin Test would "spin up to 48 RPM" and the fact that "The inner tub will not freely turn in either CW or CCW direction. It is locked up tight." didn't seem to jive. I watched the Quick Spin Test this morning with the top cover open. What I saw was that the tumblers start-up and reach 48 RPM. Then the machine tries to spin in the CCW direction and immediately stops. This seems consistent with the Quick Service Cycle test that passes right through step 2 when the tumblers are activated. I believe the 48 RPM is the correct tumbler speed as noted in the service manual Quick Service Cycle step 2. The tumbler action is quite loud so I wonder if there is something in the transmission going out as well.

    The short answer to your question is that the wash basket does not spin manually. It has maybe a inch of free travel and then stops solid. It's locked up so tight that I actually move the whole machine if I try to spin it hard enough.

    I'll drop the Clutch Pulley tonight and let you know what I find.

    I'd like to get a jump on ordering parts so I can get this fixed over the holiday weekend. Do you think it is safe to order the parts below?

    Tub seal p/n 25001090
    Tub ring Tranny O-Ring p/n 25001105.
    Qty 2 p/n 6207-2RS Outer Tub bearing.
    Qty 1 p/n 6002-2RS Upper Spinner Support agitator shaft bearing.
    Qty 1 p/n SCE-910 Lower Shell/Caged Spinner Support agitator shaft bearing.

    Thanks for your help. It is much appreciated.
    Rob
    dh1200s  
    #88 Posted : Tuesday, November 22, 2011 7:48:50 AM(UTC)
    dh1200s

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    Rob,

    "The inner tub will not freely turn in either CW or CCW direction. It is locked up tight."


    I feel you Series 11 FAV6800A is using the Upper Bearing ring and that One-Way bearing is seized.



    Missing from your parts list is the Clutch Pulley. I just found P/N 25001169 for $77.25 +$8 shipping. I recommend you stay away from $125 to $150 pricing for a replacement Clutch Pulley. Google &#8220;Maytag Clutch Pulley 25001169 and you should find. All bearing's from a bearing vendor for best price. Support this forum for other parts buy.

    Drop the Clutch Pulley out and lets go from there I think you will find something like the pic below. That is the Clutch Pully. I feel from what you describe the Upper Bearing ring second pic is seized what I'm holding in my hand.

    Good Luck&#8230;&#8230;Dick
    dh1200s attached the following image(s):
    Large Wrap Spring 1.jpg
    DSC00896.JPG
    Series 10 Upper One-Way Roller Clutch ring before clean up..JPG
    Series 10 Clutch all cleaned up. and Spinner Shaft Coupler inserted..JPG
    robksu  
    #89 Posted : Tuesday, November 22, 2011 7:59:14 PM(UTC)
    robksu

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    Dick,

    You were half right. :D I dropped the Clutch Pulley and found both the upper and lower bearings rusted solid. The clutch spring itself is intact and seems to be in decent shape. Pictures attached.

    I also tried to take some pictures of what I could see of the outer tub bearings. That is the last photo in the list.

    Now that the Clutch Pulley is removed, the wash tub moves freely in both directions with just my pinky finger as you described. The machine is on it's back when I am doing this and there seems to be a lot of water sloshing around in the outer tub even though I pumped everything I could out before I set the machine on it's back. Is this normal?

    I found the Clutch Pulley that you mentioned on-line and I ordered it but there's obviously a leak somewhere that needs to be repaired. Should I replace the tub seal and tyranny o-ring? How do I inspect the outer tub and transmission pieces to see if they can be cleaned up or if they need to be replaced?

    I must say, that this project has been very easy and straight forward so far thanks to your prolific posts! They are very helpful. Once again, thanks for your help.

    Rob
    robksu attached the following image(s):
    Clutch Pulley.JPG
    Clutch Pulley - Plastic Cover Removed.JPG
    Clucht Pulley - Spring.JPG
    Upper Clutch Bearing - Top.JPG
    Upper Clutch Bearing - Bottom.JPG
    Lower Clutch Bearing - Top.JPG
    Lower Clutch Bearing - Bottom.JPG
    Outer Tub Bottom -Spinner Shaft.JPG
    dh1200s  
    #90 Posted : Wednesday, November 23, 2011 3:24:59 AM(UTC)
    dh1200s

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    Excellent pic&#8217;s Rob! These should be used as reference for this thread. No saving that Clutch Pulley and the good news is that your machine uses the Upper Bearing One-Way ring which makes for plain vanilla Outer Tub bearing replacement job.

    &#8220;&#8221;I am doing this and there seems to be a lot of water sloshing around in the outer tub even though I pumped everything I could out before I set the machine on it's back. Is this normal?&#8221;&#8221;

    Yep the Inner Tub has a factory solution in it don&#8217;t fix that it&#8217;s not broke. I warn of that in this thread.

    &#8220;&#8221;Should I replace the tub seal and tyranny o-ring? How do I inspect the outer tub and transmission pieces to see if they can be cleaned up or if they need to be replaced?&#8221;&#8221;


    See if you can rotate the Tumblers they will move slightly. Remember in your description you saw the Tumblers rotating on inspection. I have not seen any Tranny or Motor issues posting across five different forums. Ten year warranty on those components. So for now I feel all is OK with the Tranny, Motor, Motor Controller, and inner tub components. Your next challenge is the tear down to remove the clamping ring and the six bolts used secure it see page 27 of the Service Manual. This is the point where I sheared off a bolt. Again read thru the thread for alerts.


    Yep I feel it&#8217;s the Tub Seal failure that is the root cause of the issue. Replace both the Tub Seal and Tranny O-Ring.

    Are you going to do a complete Outer Tub rebuild? By that I mean replacing the 6207-2RS Outer tub bearings and the Spinner support bearings. That blue/Teal color grease you see in your last pic is from the greased packed in the 6207-2RS bearings. I feel at a minimum those bearings should be replaced.

    If so just follow the post and alerts on pounding out the bearings in the Outer Tub. I used a impact wrench to break loose the 1.75&#8221; Spinner Support nut in your last pic. You should not need the special Maytag spanner wrench and locking ring. This all comes down to how much down time you can tolerate. You got this far and I feel you are more than qualified to successfully save the machine at low DIY repair cost.

    I would recommend when you get your new Clutch Pulley Assembly you re-lube the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing mounted in the Clutch Pulley and the Upper Bearing ring One-Way bearing.

    #9 (permalink) page in this post where I describe how to check those One-Way bearing for proper lock up in ONE direction. I feel once owners have a better understanding of how these bearing work they can properly trouble shoot issues such as unbalance and issues of no spin in spin cycle.

    I recommend Slick 50 One Lube for these bearings I would never use any type of grease......just me.

    Just shout out if you have a question and I will try to help&#8230;&#8230;.Dick
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