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steve.w  
#41 Posted : Monday, June 27, 2011 11:36:45 PM(UTC)
steve.w

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Steve,

Sounds like the problem is some where in the ice maker control module. You can try to replace it but I would suggest to replace the whole ice maker. The difference in price is just about $10, but the rate of success on ice makers repairs is very low. So, the whole new ice maker will make the repair much more reliable.

- The ice maker Part number: AP4360346


Gene,

Thanks for your advice. I think that's what I'll do. Based on the replacement parts diagram that you pointed me to for my model, I think that the ice maker part number that I need is AP2984633, not AP4360346.

Thanks again!
Gene  
#42 Posted : Tuesday, June 28, 2011 12:41:30 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Steve,

These two ice makers are identical. The difference between them is: the ice maker with the part number AP4360346 contains the ice maker only. So, you have to use the head cover and shut off arm from the old one. The other ice maker comes as a kit with all accessories.

Gene.
KevinJ123  
#43 Posted : Wednesday, June 29, 2011 9:28:52 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Kevin,

Looks like you are on the right track with new optic.


For the ice maker: I'm afraid you could damage something during the module replacement. You'll see it after you replaced the optic boards.

- The optic PC board kit Part number: AP3137510


Problem fixed!!

Replaced the optics PC board today and already have ice. THANKS!

Kevin
Gene  
#44 Posted : Thursday, June 30, 2011 12:29:55 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You are welcome Kevin. I'm glad it's up and running.

Gene.
MARKY  
#45 Posted : Friday, July 1, 2011 7:26:27 AM(UTC)
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Hey guys - I have the same problem as you, but wanted to confirm which part I should replace before going forward.

Background;
Whirlpool side by side. Model # GS6SHAXKB01
Door dispenses water.
No water to ice maker, found frozen water in tube to ice maker and cleared it.
Did following tests;
"N" & "L" - ok reads 120 V.
"T" & "N" - nothing happens.
"L" & "V" - no water dispensed.
"M" & "N" - nothing happens.
"H" & "N" - no heat.

So do I need to replace the entire Ice Maker? If so what is the part number (can't find it for complete unit).

Is the water dispensing valve OK?

Thanks in advance for you help!! :D

Mark
Gene  
#46 Posted : Friday, July 1, 2011 3:15:26 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Mark,

Did you try to short points "T" & "H"? Make sure the wire is at least 1/2" in.

Did you check the status LED on the right side in the freezer?

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GS6SHAXKB01 SIDE-BY-SIDE REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
MARKY  
#47 Posted : Friday, July 1, 2011 6:56:54 PM(UTC)
MARKY

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Gene;

Thanks for your quick reply - always a pleasure to work with you, you have helped me several times in the past...

Sorry, I miss typed, I did the "T" & "H" short and nothing happened. I reassembled the IM , put it back in the freezer and let the freezer section cool down. After the freezer cooled down I turned the IM “On” and now about 8 hours later it’s making ice again!! Not sure what to make of this, it’s hard to believe a frozen water feed line would cause this? All is working well at the moment (in fact I just heard it dump another load of ice and refill with water) so unless something goes wrong in the next 24 hours I’ll assume it was the frozen water line that caused all the problems.

Again, thanks for all your support!! :D
Gene  
#48 Posted : Sunday, July 3, 2011 3:45:43 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You are welcome Mark. If the water line will freeze up again, I would suspect the water inlet valve.

Gene.
mechanicallydmb  
#49 Posted : Sunday, July 17, 2011 9:02:20 AM(UTC)
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Hi Gene,

I have a Kitchen Aid side-by-side, model KSRA22ILSS00. The ice maker stopped producing ice - the emitter light is off. I turned the power off for ten minutes and the emitter light did not flash or show any color when turned back on. The icemaker was turned off and then turned back on. I do have water flowing through on the outside door. Should I check for 120VAC at the "L" and "N" test points as you suggested or just replace the whole unit? Or just replace the optic PC board kit? I think you said the difference in price was minimal so I'd rather replace the unit if that will rule out any other issues. I have not tried the hairdryer on the hose as yet.

Thanks!
Alan
Gene  
#50 Posted : Monday, July 18, 2011 2:52:40 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Hi Alan,

If the LED is off while the freezer door is open and the light inside the freezer is on, then the optic boards are bad. No doubt about it. You can not check the rest until you replace them.

- The optic PC board kit Part number: AP3137510
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