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bobdicks  
#51 Posted : Friday, May 13, 2011 4:25:43 PM(UTC)
bobdicks

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Dick:
Putting back together the spinner support - did an outer tub bearing replacement, tub seal, etc. Can you tell me how snug the spinner bolt on the spinner assembly should be? Shoud the spinner support rotate? Thanks. Bob
dh1200s  
#52 Posted : Friday, May 13, 2011 9:06:33 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: bobdicks Go to Quoted Post
Dick:
Putting back together the spinner support - did an outer tub bearing replacement, tub seal, etc. Can you tell me how snug the spinner bolt on the spinner assembly should be? Shoud the spinner support rotate? Thanks. Bob



Hey Bob,

The SM on page 19 top left states 64 to 80 ft lbs. I used no torque wrench just snugged it down. Yes the Spinner support should rotate. Do you have any binding? The Spinner Support is riding in the Outer Tub bearings you replaced.

Did you follow this post for your work? FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement

Did you remove the old Tub Seal aleeve see on post three of that thread?

Did you replace the Spinner Support bearings with your rebuild?

Sorry for the late response I just go in from work (Tue - Sat 4pm to 0030am East Cost).

Shout back if I can help with any issues/concerns..........Dick
bobdicks  
#53 Posted : Friday, May 13, 2011 9:56:43 PM(UTC)
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Dick:
I snugged it down, tight enough but still allow the assembly to spin. Just finished the second load of towels - so far so good!

FYI - per your post/instructions, I changed the clutch a couple of times over the past few years. The rust the last time was real bad, so I opted for the bearing and tub seal replacement. Either that or shell out $2000 for a new set. I purchased this set in 2004, and checked the paperwork. To my surprise, the outer tub was under warranty for 10 years. I called Maytag, asked them to send a replacement as I was going to fix it myself. It arrived today w/ bearings and tub seal pre-installed. I tore down the machine and reassembled w/ the new tub. However, the bottom of the new tub that accepts to the flanges on the clutch was redesigned and the clutch didn't set right. Fortuneately, I had purchased bearings, tub seal and tranny seal just in case the new tub didn't work. I ended up rebuilding the old tub. So far so good.

Thanks for your help. I have 4 kids and a lot of laundry - really appreciate the great advice.

Bob
dh1200s  
#54 Posted : Saturday, May 14, 2011 8:20:13 AM(UTC)
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Bob,

Great job on your rebuild.

I have never heard of Whirlpool/Maytag doing anything like that. Three years ago I got them to send me a Control Board but it was a real pain.

I know the Outer Tub, Motor and tranny per my warranty is for 10 yrs.

I will point other owners to your post and give that a try.

The new Outer Tub redesign incorporates the One-Way Upper bearing ring One-Way bearing as part of the Lower Outer Tub Bearing assembly. You would not use the Upper Bearing ring on your replacement Clutch Pulley with that new Outer Tub with no notches.

I got to give this a try and see If i can get them to send me one. That's a $400+ part retail you got from them. :D

Good Luck............Dick
bobdicks  
#55 Posted : Saturday, May 14, 2011 9:05:46 AM(UTC)
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Dick:
Do you happen to know the part number of the clutch for the redesigned tub? I will probably need it in the future if my "old" tub bearings fail.

Also, when I called Maytag for the replacement, I only told them that the old outer tub failed and was leaking. I did not speak specifically to the tub seal leak or bearings. Good luck.

Thanks. Bob
dh1200s  
#56 Posted : Saturday, May 14, 2011 9:34:17 PM(UTC)
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I use this Clutch Pulley p/n 25001169 used for all FAV6800A/FAV9800A original Outer Tub and your new redisgined Outer Tub. I find it for under $80 + shipping. For you new Outer Tub you don't use the Upper Bearing ring above the Clutch Pulley. That's the only difference. That Upper Bearing ring functionality is now a combined bearing assembly in the Lower Outer Tub bearing assembly. Here is what it looks like;
dh1200s attached the following image(s):
0207_2RS pic 1.JPG
0207_2RS pic 2.JPG
0207_2RS pic 3.JPG
0207_2RS pic 4.JPG
VICKY BRCAK  
#57 Posted : Tuesday, June 7, 2011 6:52:17 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: gowest4552 Go to Quoted Post
Back to dh1200s from gowest4552
Dick, I followed your tread and advice and instructions to the "T" and every thing worked perfectly - just as you said.
NO STRUTS NEEDED
I FIXED IT FOR EXACTLY FREE Thanks to you.
Let me run through this.
I copied all mine, and your, treads/correspondance & pasted in " MY DOCUMENTS". Then I down loaded the PDF to "MY DOCUMENTS" from 'Maytag' (clicked on where you said) in the thread.
I printed out the sheets of YOUR reply's.
I printed out page 46 and page 47 from Maytag PDF.
I read your advice over and over, then started to Disasemble the Washer at 8:00pm. Had it going on wash cycle at 10:05 pm. Plus showed my wife how 1'way rollers worked & goofed a bit in between.
I turned the COUPLER -- CW Then CCW and it would rotate both directions (bad).
Then I gave slipped out the coupler and gave a quick shot of WD40 on the dried out bearing. Slipped back in the coupling a quik twist and it only went in one direction (good).
Got a paper towel cleaned off all WD40 from bearing and surrounding stuff.
Worked some high quality Red Wheel Bearing grease into the bearing. Reinserted the coupler --twist, twist --still worked 1 direction (good).
Gave a lite coat grease to other slightly rusted surfaces. Reinstalled as per you instructions. ALL WORKS GREAT AS OF NOW.
COST = $0.00 I've had the red grease since 2-12-2003 (I datemark everything) and I already had the WD40.
What a great Christmas present.
Thanx from Texas, as they say, You Da Man
Kenneth:D




NOT SURE I AM DOING THIS RIGHT BUT, HOW DO YOU GET THE BELT BACK ON?
VICKY:confused:
dh1200s  
#58 Posted : Tuesday, June 7, 2011 9:03:00 PM(UTC)
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Hi Vicky,

You walk the belt back on Clutch Pulley. You can loosen the Drive Motor Bolt (page 46 of the Service Manual) to give you a bit less belt tension but it&#8217;s not very much. I put the Drive Belt on the Drive motor pulley and walk the belt on the Clutch Pulley in a CCW direction. Sort like walking a chain back on the sprocket of a bicycle if you have ever done that. It&#8217;s a lil tricky, watch you don&#8217;t pinch your fingers in the process. Maybe one of the repair techs can explain it better&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..Dick
DB App.  
#59 Posted : Friday, June 10, 2011 3:22:07 PM(UTC)
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I also just stumbled onto this web site looking for advice. I tried the self diagnosis road and bought the struts and installed them without any improvement. Because of the clear posts and great pics, I had the tub out, the clutch "rebuilt" and the unit back together in under an hour. Thanks to you all that posted. I am also on a fixed income and my time is plentiful, not to mention the feeling of actually fixing something in this disposible society. Dave
dh1200s  
#60 Posted : Friday, June 10, 2011 4:11:56 PM(UTC)
dh1200s

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Good deal Dave I’m glad it worked out for you. If you had a lot of rust on the One-Way bearings in the Clutch Pulley and the Upper bearing ring if your series has the old Outer Tub design then a Tub Seal/Outer Tub rebuild may be upcoming.

Most DIY folks with some basic mechanical skill sets can get thru this ,see this link; FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement

Don’t feel bad about the strut replacement. Maybe the struts can be returned. Most owners get steered in that direction if you don’t have a good feel for the the root cause of unbalance errors with the machine. Shout if you have other issues with the machine and I will try to help………..Dick
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