I responded to Johnatevw e-mail to me. We will update the post shortly with troubleshooting efforts.........Dick

Johnatevw said

“”The stationary pin in my clutch was loose and not doing anything. So after seeing your picture, I managed to put the loose end of the spring in the hole where that plastic pin goes, and then jam the pin in to pin the end of the spring in there. That was hard to do, but I finally was able to do it.

Good deal with that Large Wrap SS spring not compressing the wash basket would never spin up. During the Spin Cycle if you raised the washer top from the base just far enough to observe the wash basket with no wash load in the basket you would see the Tumblers spinning and very slight rotation of the wash basket in the CCW direction if the Outer Tub bearings are not draging.

I believe when you remove the 4 screws holding down the Clutch Pulley cover you can then rotate the white bearing plate around so that the Large Wrap Spring pin end will slip into that slot of the White Bearing Plate. I have not done in a while but I believe that would help you line up that spring end into the slot.

I’ll post that pic so any other owners can view what we are talking about.

For the rest of the forum here is a brief overview of the process when a FAV6800A or FAV9800A enters the Spin Cycle.

In the Spin Cycle of a selected wash cycle or a Spin Only Cycle the washer motor direction is reversed from CW rotation (Wash/Agitate rotation) to CCW rotation (Spin Direction).

The Spinner Shaft Coupler (my name for it) should not rotate in the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate with Clutch Pulley CCW rotation the Spin direction.

If the One-Way Roller Clutches needle bearings do not lock up and slip in the Spin direction there will be Agitator Shaft rotation at the start of the Spin Cycle.


This will drive the Tumblers to rotate maybe only slightly and drag the wash load off balance. The Wash Tub begins to swing off balance. The TDS Signals the Control Board with a varying D.C. voltage detected from the erratic Wash Tub Swings.

When the out of range D.C. voltage is reached at the Control Board input the Control Board shuts the Spin Cycle down then tries to redistribute the wash load unbalance.


The Control Board then starts the Spin Cycle again. After several tries (4 to 5) of this process to correct for a wash load unbalance condition the Control Board signals a DC or UC unbalance code to the FAV6800A LED display for owner intervention.

I believe your LCD version the FAV9800A sends a text message to the display “”Unbalance Condition”” or something like that. You said in the above post “”You helped me last year with a water input valve on my 9800AWW washer.””

What is really important for me to know is the wash tub swinging/banging around as the wash basket begins to spin up causing with unbalance error code generation. We need to rule out a TDS issue or a front strut issue.

If one or both of the Two front Struts are sagging and not returning the wash tub to a level condition. Or the the TDS has malfunctioned both of these issues can caues UC unbalance error code generation. Both of those items/issues are easy to check.

TheTub Displacement Sensor Diagnostics check on page 19 of the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual and a visual/compression checks of the two Front Struts.

Almost all the time this issue (DC/UC unbalance error code generation) is caused by the One-Way Roller clutches needle bearing not locking up ROCK SOLID in Spin Cycle.


Let us know how it goes..........Dick

Good work John. Yea for that inside Pin to come unseated is strange. You see how it all fits together.

I have worked with forum members at other sites that had that Pin end of the Large Wrap SS spring that fits in the White Bearing plate end break off, be streched straight etc. The test of time is next.....Dick

I have never received good feedback from other users on what may have happened with the broken spring end. Your feedback has been great.

As I mentioned before if the Large Wrap SS spring end parts, in Spin Cycle the Tumblers would rotate and the Wash Basket would just sit there and or move very slowly CCW with no wash load in the basket. I know this because I took my test FAV6800A and I installed the Clutch Pulley with the Large Wrap spring removed just to observe/simulate the action of a broke Clutch Pulley spring about 2.5 yrs ago.

My WAG is a jam/binding issue. Maybe the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller needle bearing froze up. In Spin Cycle I feel that would not be noticed sort of normal action for Spin Cycle. But in wash/agitate cycle I feel that would try to wind up the Large Wrap SS spring up in the opposite direction. I feel that would also cause the wash basket to start rotating CW. Try to rotate your wash basket CW right now it should not because of drive system resistance.

While you are working OK I would put the machine in Service Mode and run the washer up in Quick Spin Test and record the max RPM. It should go to .85 for 850 RPM's. I would just do that to get a feel for the health of the Outer Tub bearings. Down the road you will develop a Tub Seal Leak and those bearings could get compromised…..jet engine taking off …..Outer Tub bearing squeal in Spin Cycle

Things to watch out for down the road is Left Hand Lid Lock corrosion causing OP,OD and FL error codes an easy fix for a DIY owner as you. Washer water over flow during initial fill or in the wash cycle caused by stuck open water inlet valve or Stuck Open Pressure switch contacts. That will make for a real bad day.

I helped a repair tech on another forum with a FAV9800A LCD version of this machine. +12.0 VDC on the Control Board was being pulled down by corrision bridge at the 3 pin connector of the TDS. That was fun.... the Bleach Dispenser can cause a lot of corrision issues on the left side of the machine.

The poor design of this machine with no rear panel access makes for PITA job to work on the Drain Pump/Pressure Switch. I’ll attach a Pic. On the Right hand side is the drain pump and Pressure Switch mounted on top of the Drain Pump. To the Left is the Motor Controller. I took this Pic back when I was replacing the Outer Tub bearings and the Spinner Support bearings in my Series 10 machine just for fun and hands on experience. You will find a great knowledge gap on this machine I feel caused by a very short production run.

On a happy note you can make the machine last a very long time with replacement parts.….Dick

Hey Andy,

Did you hear any bearing noise when you placed the machine Quick Spin test? As you see from the SM It should step up to 90RPM (90 in the display) for 60 seconds then thru the ranges 15. for 150 RPM up to 85. for 850 RPM.

""I cannot turn the tub manually, reaching inside through the lid. Is this tub bearing issue, or do these tubs not turn when you try this?””

If you open the washer lid and rotate the Wash Basket CCW (the Spin direction) it should rotate in the Outer Tub Bearings with very little resistance. Can you give us a feel for ease the Outer Tub will spin in the CCW direction or is it froze up?

If you spin the wash basket up by hand in the CCW direction as fast as you can it should continue rotate CCW for several turns and coast to a gentle stop. The wash basket should not rotate in the CW direction.

I assume if you place the washer in Spin Only it fails to spin up (you can enter Service Mode to observe after you start the Spin Only cycle). You can release the washer top form the base a few inches to observe the Wash Basket Spin/CCW rotation also.

I’ll try to help you get it going if you want to troubleshoot the issue.…….Dick