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Originally Posted by: gowest4552  Hey richappy,
Thank you for your quick response. I will now try find/order the parts.
Sounds like that would be the exact answer.
I'll let you know how it turns out if that's ok.
Thanks again,
gowest455 Hey Again richappy, I got a response from Member dh1200s, and Dick suggested, IT IS NOT THE STRUTS FIX THE 1-WAY ROLLER BEARING CLUTCH. Since I could try the roller bearing without waiting for ordered parts, that's what I did. Cleaned up dried bearing grease with WD40 and regreased bearing per his instructions and the washer works perfectly. Tear down to up & running a clothes load = 2HRs & 5 min. The struts were standing up just fine. Thanks anyway for advice. gowest4552
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Rank: Member
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Hi Kenneth….. Dick from Honey Brook, Pa. Nooooooooo you the man. Working with an owner like you with skill set’s makes this enjoyable and a rewarding experience.
I’m just passing along hands on info that I have gained over the past year since my FAV6800A started with the unbalance dc/uC errors.
The machine has some other issues related to the Left Hand Lid Lock. I have that well documented watch out for OD, OP,FL and maybe a FO errors down the road I’m going to paste in some pic of the Left Hand Lid Lock for future info.
I have seen a few Control Board failures, Motor Controller Failures, TDS issue with corrosion issues at the 3 pin connector, a stuck pressure switch Low/Mid contacts not releasing with an empty wash tub. I troubleshoot at Control Board level and feel very relaxed on popping the hood on the machine. I have changed out the outer tub bearings, Tub Seal and trany O-ring on a Series 10 machine. The Series 12 and above that don't use the Upper One-Way Roller Clutch bearing ring are a bit different. I haven't done a Series 12 or above but worked with a owner on another forum and feel it is very doable.
I recommend to protect your Control Board/LCD with good surge protector as with any high value microprocessor controlled device.
I have three FAV6800A’s here. My original series 16 in the basement, A series 10 ($40) in the basement and the $.99 most recent internet purchase a series 17 machine which is now my everyday machine. That machine looked like it was just delivered from HD. No mold in the tub, no rust around the washer top and the One-Way Roller clutches were pristine. The Spinner Shaft Coupler (my name for it) rotated/slipped CCW and U know what that will do….big time dC/uC errors. Did what you did and back in service. I have many parts I got cheap all that work in my test bed FAV6800A.
If your LCD console ever fails I feel we could convert it to a LED flavor with no issues. I have not been able to acquire a used LCD console. I base that on the wiring diagrams for both flavors of the machine.
I have the schematic’s in in PDF format for the series, .PNG files are out on the WWW just hard to find. Let me know if you want them.
I’m an Electronics Technician by training with years of craft skills gained in the Telecom Ind. The machine is a hobby….. I know I got to get a life.
Have a good one…..Dick
I tried to attach some Left Hand Lid Lock corrision issue pics. The process stalls I will try later. Take care.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/26/2009(UTC)
Posts: 6
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Hello again Dick, Good news & not so good news-that ends well. (So far) My Maytag mde9800ayw Electric Dryer developed a loud clank clank. (not so good news) One of the TUMBLER BAFFLES had the screws loosening up and it sounded like you were drying a load of bricks. The good news is, I used your Maytag lead to find a PDF for a dryer. http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16023110.pdf I could not figure out how in the world to loosen up the top. On page 5-1 & 5-2 of the manual there's the answer. I never would have figured out how to get it apart if not for this site, and you and Maytags info. No telling how much I would be paying someone to tighten up two screws. If I can figure out how to edit my profile & get my email address on there, I want to be able to email / contact you and maybe others. This is great. Thanks a million again, Kenneth gowest4552 Originally Posted by: dh1200s Hi Kenneth….. Dick from Honey Brook, Pa. Nooooooooo you the man. Working with an owner like you with skill set’s makes this enjoyable and rewarding experience.
I’m just passing along hands on info that I have gained over the past year since my FAV6800A started with the unbalance dc/uC errors.
The machine has some other issues related to the Left Hand Lid Lock. I have that well documented watch out for OD, OP,FL and maybe a FO errors down the road I’m going to paste in some pic of the Left Hand Lid Lock for future info.
I have seen a few Control Board failures, Motor Controller Failures, TDS issue with corrosion issues at the 3 pin connector, a stuck pressure switch Low/Mid contacts not releasing with an empty wash tub. I troubleshoot at Control Board level and feel very relaxed on popping the hood on the machine. I haven’t changed out the outer tub bearings but feel I can handle that.
I recommend to protect your Control Board/LCD with good surge protector as with any high value microprocessor controlled device.
I have three FAV6800A’s here. My original series 16 in the basement, A series 10 ($40) in the basement and the $.99 most recent internet purchase a series 17 machine which is now my everyday machine. That machine looked like it was just delivered from HD. No mold in the tub, no rust around the washer top and the One-Way Roller clutches were pristine. The Spinner Shaft Coupler (my name for it) rotated/slipped CCW and U know what that will do….big time dC/uC errors. Did what you did and back in service. I have many parts I got cheap all that work in my test bed FAV6800A.
If your LCD console ever fails I feel we could convert it to a LED flavor with no issues. I have not been able to acquire a used LCD console. I base that on the wiring diagrams for both flavors of the machine.
I have the schematic’s in in PDF format for the series, the are out on the WWW just hard to find. Let me know if you want them.
I’m an Electronics Technician by training with years of craft skills gained in the Telecom Ind. The machine is a hobby….. I know I got to get a life.
Have a good one…..Dick
I tried to attach some Left Hand Lid Lock corrision issue pics. The process stalls I will try later. Take care.
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Rank: Member
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Hello Kenneth,
I helped an owner with that dryer different forum a while back same issue. Having some basic skill sets and the right attitude goes a long way if you want to save a $ and you have both. I’m no expert I feel I’m in the same profile as you. And I can’t stop fixing the machine if it aint broke. I specialize in trouble shooting from the Control Board in and out sensing and control.
The FAV6800A/FAV9800A takes a pretty bad rap by repair techs and owners. It definitely has design issues but what machine out there doesn’t?
I feel it comes down to some basic hands on some troubleshooting skill sets coupled with diag code block and error code info will get ya to a fix every time. My weak area is replacing outer tub bearings. I have never done that but I think both you and I can do it without the Tony Tool type of bearing puller.
There are times when having spare parts is a real advantage/must have to confirm the fail point such as Control Board, Motor Controller, TDS, Left Hand Lid Lock (I just clean the corrosion up on that bad boy). And I have not seen a Motor failure with our machine model in all the many hundreds of post I have worked on.
My e-mail is [EMAIL="dh1200s@yahoo.com"]dh1200s@yahoo.com[/EMAIL]. I’ll respond back to ya.
Take care and have a good Maytag day :)…..Dick
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My wife's Maytag FAV6800AWW was doing the load unbalance thing. So, I found this site :) and your thread on how to fix the problem ! All I can say is "DITTOS" to gowest4552 Thank you.
George
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Rank: Member
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Glad it worked out for you....Dick
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After reading many Maytag Neptune postings, I'm convinced my washer has the same clutch problem. I get the constant unbalanced load errors/shutdown, but it runs ok empty.
I would greatly appreciate any guidance on how to fix it. I'm relatively handy, have done lots of auto mechanics but not much appliance repair. Still, a $10 home fix sounds way better than a $300 tech visit that could be done with some effort and minimal know-how.
The photos are helpful, but are there schematics in PDF so I know what I'm getting into? I want to know if this is something that's doable before I get the washer disassembled in the garage and get the wife mad at me!
Thanks so much! You can also email me at jdgavin@sbcglobal.net
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/7/2009(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: jdgavin After reading many Maytag Neptune postings, I'm convinced my washer has the same clutch problem. I get the constant unbalanced load errors/shutdown, but it runs ok empty.I would greatly appreciate any guidance on how to fix it. I'm relatively handy, have done lots of auto mechanics but not much appliance repair. Still, a $10 home fix sounds way better than a $300 tech visit that could be done with some effort and minimal know-how.The photos are helpful, but are there schematics in PDF so I know what I'm getting into? I want to know if this is something that's doable before I get the washer disassembled in the garage and get the wife mad at me!Thanks so much! You can also email me at jdgavin@sbcglobal.net Jason, I see that you have e-mailed me and I'm going to respond to you shortly. Dick
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Thanks so much, Dick. Your previous postings have helped immensely.
Yes, the clutch lube or replace is fairly straightforward. But now that I think I have the leak, the tub seal and O-ring replace are a bit more dicey. (I want to stop the leak and protect my investment in the $75 new clutch). I ordered the Tub Seal and O-ring (I think $16 and $3).
I guess I'll have to also order the special wrench and fitting, which as you said are oddly cheaper separately than when paired together as the "kit".
I think the tub bearings in mine are okay, it spins by hand pretty freely and easily without much noise. I would like to plug the leak before it messes up the tub bearings, which I imagine would happen eventually.
I also finally found the service manual online, after much searching. It's relatively helpful, but yeah, it does make assumptions that the reader has read and retained all of it. (For example, it will say, "Step 1: Remove tub" rather than "Step 1: Remove tub [see page X for the 12 things involved in doing so]". Could be clearer and less threadbare, but it does help some, at least.
Still, I couldn't find much in there for replacing the Tub Seal / O-ring.
My Maytag Neptune TL FAV6800AWW is a Series 12, by the way. I know there is an engineering difference between Series 10-11 and Series 12-17.
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Rank: Member
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Yep the SM is a reference for those that have some hands on experience with the machine. I would hold off on the purchase of the Maytag Spinner Nut removal tool. You can use a 1.75" socket and impact wrench to remove the Spinner Nut. I believe you will find with the FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines Series 12 and above will not have the Upper One-Way Roller bearing ring above the clutch pulley. And I believe those Outer tubs will not have the notches for the Spinner Nut Locking ring as seen on page 47 of the SM. I will attach a pic of my Series 10 machine which has the tub notches.1st pic before Spinner Assembly is removed.2nd Pic of the 1.75 Spinner Nut and Spinner Assembly removed and a clear pic of the factory 6207-DU lower Outer Tub bearing.3rd Pic is the sleeve that came out of the tub seal and needs to be removed. I have the drill bit pointing to that Tub Seal sleeve that will more than likely remain on the shaft of the Spinner Support assembly. When you pick up your Tub Seal replacement you will see this sleeve. You can impact off the 1.75" Spinner Nut and on reassembly with a helper. Try to lock the Spinner Assembly as shown page 45 of the SM when you install the Spinner Support assembly to tighten down the Spinner Nut. I used no torque wrench just snug down the Spinner Nut.Let's start a new post maybe a subject like "FAV6800A Tub Seal replacement" and we can share info. and have input from other forum members.I have only done this on once on my Series 10 machine so I'm no expert. I feel you will have no issues just take it slow. And as I mentioned in my e-mail response when comes time to remove the six spinner bolts to remove the wash basket/inner tub soak those bolt heads with penetrating fluid (PB Blaster) before you try to remove by hand or with an impact tool.........Dick dh1200s attached the following image(s):
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