Dick - Thanks agian for all the help and support. When I break the unit down for seal / brg service, I will get you the bearing stack height of the late style bearing pack. I read the posts on bearing replacement that you provided. Those helped a lot. I will post / add to those posts as I go through the tub rebuild. By that time, I should have the bearing shim situation finalized. Dave

Congrats on your clutch repair. If you got through that, you can replace the tub seals with about the same level of difficulty. I think you may find the bearings have already suffered some water damage at this point, and may need replacement. I "rebuilt" my clutch and 4 months later the machine started setting a trouble code for low shaft RPM. The seals were leaking and the inner bearings that Dick shows in his tub overhaul thread were water damaged and preventing the spin/aggiate cycles from reaching the desired shaft RPM the control module was looking for. Dick's thread is so thorough that I can only add one line to it at this point. My observation after completing the entire bearing replacement and tub overhaul is the six bolts that Dick speaks of in his thread can indeed be a bear to remove. I would like to expand on his information at this point and state that not only would I soak the 6 bolts with PB Blaster, but I found that rocking the bolts out until they stop turning or "bind-up", stop !, spray the area again, and then turn the bolts back down into the housing until they stop. Repeating this process seems to draw the PB Blaster deep into the threads and helps to release the corrosion without bolt breakage. With some luck and a lot of patience, I was able to get all 6 corroded bolts out of the housing without breakage. The only other trick I learned during reassembly of my unit, which would help you during dissassembly of your unit is this: There is a place to put a 3/8's inch extension through the outer tub and into the inner tub to lock the 2 units together. My trick is to use 2 - 3/8's extensions, one in each of the opposing holes and load/ hold the extensions together with a sweatband or a large rubber band to keep the extensions from falling out as you move the assembely about during tear-down. This allows you to remove or tighten the large base nut without a fight.
Dave

Dave,

Solid feedback on the Tub clean up and easing out those 6 Spinner Suppport bolts and Spinner Support lock down. A recent forum member snaped off a few and went the direction I went with replacing the Spinner Support hardware with SS Helicoil inserts and SS hardware. Please keep the support going for the machine. All FAV6800A/FAV9800A DIY owners that refuse to junk the machine will appreciate the help.

Question did your Series 16 machine use the Upper Bearing ring and if not what did you use for shims on the lower Outer Tub bearing?

If you run into issues with the Lid Locks search in this forum under dh1200s, I have support for troubleshooting OD,OP and FL error codes associated with the Left Hand Lid Lock. Other issue support like ND error code related to Drain Pump and Pressure Switch trouble shooting can be found on this and a few other forums I have posted on.

Very nice job on your repair/save of the machine.

Keep an eye out for machines being trashed or postings for used machines or owners parting out broke machines.....the parts may come in handy.

As you have found the machine can be saved for low cost if the owner has a desire and some basic abilities.

Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays to you and your family.........Dick

Dave,

""I have only had this washer apart and do not fix washers for a living.""

Me too I'm a Electronics Tech by trade.

Sounds like your series 16 machine used the upper bearing ring as part of the Clutch Pulley assembly see pic below. The old style tub design used the upper bearing ring. I thought for a while Maytag moved over to the intergrated lower tub bearing in series 13 and above machines based on other owner feed back.......not so.

The 6207 DU bearings are original and yes 6207-2RS is the replacement Outer tub bearing for the rebuild for all series machines from what I have seen.....series 18 machine is the highest I have seen in the production run to date.

One day I'll tare down my Series 16 or 17 that does not use the upper bearing ring and find out what shims are needed for the lower tub bearing using standard off the shelf 6207-2RS bearing replacements.

Good save and excellent job Dave!

Dick, I have a question for you. From what I have seen on this issue and my own experience the water leak starts at the trans o-ring (have studied mine very close, have worked on washers for 20 years) . They secure the trans to the tub hub using 4 bolts. The plastic trans will flex under some hard agitating causing the oring to leak alittle each time. I have come across this in other applications and can tell you its not the best design. What if you put some rubber sealer on both sides of the trans oring? Not silicone it will not stay. I would use a gutter sealant that is flexable when dry, repells water, can expand and retract, and seals under water. If it is clean it sticks very well. An oring will only seal on a smooth and flat surfaces. I would like to hear back from you on this it could save alot of labor and aggrevation.
Thanks Joe