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Originally Posted by: IvelDesigns 
sorry, forgot to say that i am having an issue with spin only. agitate works, drains fine, but won't spin even with one wet towel in it. there is a burning smell if we leave it, however, if you help start it by hand, it will spin up to speed on it's own.
this is in a kenmore 90 series Well, I'm not a repairman (I'm the reason my husband's quickly become one!!), but I can tell you this. I own a Kenmore 90 series and it has done that EXACT same thing 3 times now. And EACH time it has been the clutch, which cost just under $25.00 to purchase and took my husband less than an hour to replace. EASY repair!! I can't tell you it's NOT the brake shoes, but I can tell you that wasn't the case for us. Think I might check your clutch just in case.
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For Myhandyhubby, I would appreciate it if you would not confuse my answer to this washer problem.
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Good job, I assume you greased the brake cam rollers.
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I'm new here, and I think my machine is to do with the brakes samething, because it makes a bad noise when it spins have mastered everyhting As for the hull of the washing machine is coupling the off.I see cycle.I Great shape, because my motor off...
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I have replaced my washer and I would like to repair the old one and give it away. When it went into the spin mode the motor smoked. unplugged and checked motor,OK. Removed the agitator and the spanner nut but I cant get the basket out. I removed the transmission. Looking at the clutch and brake , can someone break it down to me how they work? The spin tube would not come out either. I am a TV tech. that opened my own shop and expanded into appliances, had 10 employees for 35 years, retired in 95 and am now 86. A little handicapped due to age. I love to understand how things work. Can you help??
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All info is in the sticky "replacing direct drive washer brake shoes". You can clean the rust off the top of the spin tube to allow it's removal; lay the washer on it's back to prevent oil coming out.In my service work, I never pull out or replace the spin tube, unless it is damaged by a loose drive block.To change brakes, I just pry it down a little. Also, when removing the pump, I never pull the hoses off, just jam it on the frame to the left.
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Quote:Then put oil on the pad and work some silicone grease in the roller. 1. Will any 2/1 household oil due for the pad? 2. Is putting oil on the brake shoes necessary? 3. Last, will any silicone grease work on the roller. I mean, I am buying the brake shoes through your website but buying this lubricant: WHIRLPOOL Lubricant, part number: AP3131935 that almost cost as much as the brake itself seems like a waste of money.
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Originally Posted by: spacecase Do u happen to know where I can get a diagramed manual for a Kenmore 80 series You can usually obtain a technician manual of most washers by looking beneath the control panel assembly. For front loaders, it is usually behind the lower toe panel or sometimes on the inner side wall. You can also order most tech manuals from Sears.
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Hello. I pulled my motor from the transmission and tried to rotate the transmission using the coupler. The shaft just keeps turning. It doesn't engage the basket at all.
I replaced the coupler but it broke during the first load.
When I first tried to rotate the shaft clockwise,it was really hard to turn. I tried to turn the basket by hand and it moved but it too was hard to turn. After I turned the basket by hand,the shaft doesn't catch on anything.
Is this a brake shoes problem?
Thanks
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An update to my question:
I pulled the transmission out to look at the brake pads and put a little oil on the pads. They don't seem to be very tight,they turn easily in the housing.
Can I rule out the brake pads as the reason for the coupler breaking?
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