Thank you for your great discussion and video on Brake shoe replacement for Whirlpool type direct drive washers - VERY helpful.

I thought that I might pass along a secret that I discovered about brake problems. I picked up a "curb" washer with a bad clutch. When troubleshooting by manually rotating the motor shaft (pump off) using an adjustable wrench, I found a HEAVY resistance when turning the motor shaft in the SPIN direction (clockwise). It appeared to me that the brake was not releasing.

I replaced the clutch assembly, which included a new Driver Cam (white plastic). Even on the new driver cam (brake release arm), there seemed to be excessive slop between the driver ID and the spin tube OD. In addition, there was quite a lot of backlash / end play between the driver and it's retaining ring. I suspected all this LOST MOTION was preventing the brake shoes from fully releasing.

I fabricated an .032 steel washer to install under the retaining ring to take up most of the end play - IT WORKED!

I didn't really want to MAKE a washer and figured I could modify a large OD wood/fender washer to fit. No luck - seems all are .062 (1/16) and too thick.

Next, I looked at (automotive) valve spring insert shim washers and found one that just needed a very slight increase (.010) on the ID to fit. The only trouble is that washer is only used on a RARE engine and not available locally. Since I didn't want to spend $30 to order a box of washers when I only needed one, I went ahead and made a washer from sheet steel.

Since many of you are in the business of appliance repair and wouldn't mind spending 30 bucks for a box, I will pass along the part number: B-400-S. This is a steel washer .030 thick, 1.180 ID, 1.650 OD. This is a Pioneer or VSI part number. My spin tube measures 1.185 OD. so the washer ID needs to be opened up only about .010 which could be easily accomplished with a Dremel hand grinder. An .060 washer is also available as A-400-S, but I doubt if you will need one THAT thick.

The shim washer has serrations on one side which could eat plastic, so keep that side toward the steel snap ring.

I think that this method may eliminate the need of grinding off material ("up to 1/8 inch") on the brake shoes to eliminate drag.

I hope this helps.
Jerry King